Door Speakers

[elav]

I did a search but couldn't find a direct answer, so I figured I would ask. I have a '98 base Boxster with dash and door speakers. It originally came with a Becker CDR210, but I was given a Becker CDR220, so added that and a bluetooth module via the AUX/CD Changer. I also have the Nokia 4x40 Watt amp. The dash speakers were shot, so I replaced them and installed them today. They sound much better but there is no sound coming out of either door speaker (which I believe are subs). I believe the wiring is stock and the dash and door speakers are wired to the amp in the front trunk. There is no connector plugged into the head unit amp. I made sure all connectors are solidly plugged in the HU and the amp and it looks like the line out from the HU has a common ground. I find it weird that neither door speaker is working.

• What is the best way to debug this?
• Is there a common failure for the wiring to the door speakers?
• Are the rubber boots at the door hinge a boot or also a connector?

I know the general response will be to simply replace the door speakers but I want to get them working to see where I am before I take the next step.

[KevinH1990]

How are your dash speakers connected to the head unit? Did a previous owner wire them directly to the head unit and bypassed the amp? If I recall correctly, the Becker units had both pre-outs (unamplified output signals) and amplified outputs.

The stock set up for the cars with the amplifier had an amp turn on wire. If everything is set up in the stock configuration, turning on the head unit powers the amp on. The signal for the speakers went from the pre-outs to the amplifier and then from the amplifier to the speakers. If the previous owner disconnected the amp turn on wire, the amp won't turn on and power the door speakers. That could be the problem.

The door speakers are not true subwoofers. They are low frequency speakers that average the front and rear outputs.

[elav]

The dash and door speakers are run by the amp. So the amp is working or at least 2 of the 4 channels of the amp is working.

Originally Posted by KevinH1990

How are your dash speakers connected to the head unit? Did a previous owner wire them directly to the head unit and bypassed the amp? If I recall correctly, the Becker units had both pre-outs (unamplified output signals) and amplified outputs.

The stock set up for the cars with the amplifier had an amp turn on wire. If everything is set up in the stock configuration, turning on the head unit powers the amp on. The signal for the speakers went from the pre-outs to the amplifier and then from the amplifier to the speakers. If the previous owner disconnected the amp turn on wire, the amp won't turn on and power the door speakers. That could be the problem.

The door speakers are not true subwoofers. They are low frequency speakers that average the front and rear outputs.

[KevinH1990]

Here are a few things to check if you haven't done so already:

Experiment with the fader (front/back) controls. I know you don't have rear speakers, but the doors are a blend of the front and rear sound. Adjusting the control could provide a higher-level signal to the doors. Also turn up the bass to see whether that makes a difference.

Were the door speakers working before you swapped the head unit? If the speakers were working, it could be an issue with the new CDR220. To confirm that, you could reinstall the CDR210 and determine whether the door speakers are working. If you remove the head unit, look for damaged wires behind it. There is a lot of wiring packed into that area and some of it could have been damaged if it got caught between the head unit and the dashboard structure.

If you suspect a problem with the amplifier, I have a 4X40 Haes amplifier I can send you for the cost of shipping.

If you suspect a problem with the wiring, you can use a multimeter to check continuity from the amplifier to the door speakers. Unfortunately, that will require you to remove the door cards to access the wiring in the door. That will also allow you to determine whether the door speakers are defective.

I have to go to work in a few minutes, but I will search for the wiring information I found when I upgraded my door speakers when I return home tonight.

[elav]

I really appreciate the guidance!
- I tested the front/back controls and the bass levels - both door speakers are completely quiet
- I'm embarrassed to say that I don't know if the door speakers were ever working since my ownership. Unfortunately the CDR210 is gone, so I can't test with that radio
- The wiring appears fine and I checked the wires carefully as I added a Bluetooth module to the CD changer plug in the HU and accidentally broke a wire for that trying to slide the radio in - so visually checked the rest of the wires after that fun
- I will test the wiring from the amp to the door speakers with a 9V battery - it should make a sound if those wires are good
- I might be down to a bad HU or bad amp. I might take you up on your amp offer as that might be the easiest path - thanks!

Funny, my next project was going to be adding rear speakers to the rear storage unit but I may pause my stereo improvement activities after getting the door speakers working

Originally Posted by KevinH1990

Here are a few things to check if you haven't done so already:

Experiment with the fader (front/back) controls. I know you don't have rear speakers, but the doors are a blend of the front and rear sound. Adjusting the control could provide a higher-level signal to the doors. Also turn up the bass to see whether that makes a difference.

Were the door speakers working before you swapped the head unit? If the speakers were working, it could be an issue with the new CDR220. To confirm that, you could reinstall the CDR210 and determine whether the door speakers are working. If you remove the head unit, look for damaged wires behind it. There is a lot of wiring packed into that area and some of it could have been damaged if it got caught between the head unit and the dashboard structure.

If you suspect a problem with the amplifier, I have a 4X40 Haes amplifier I can send you for the cost of shipping.

If you suspect a problem with the wiring, you can use a multimeter to check continuity from the amplifier to the door speakers. Unfortunately, that will require you to remove the door cards to access the wiring in the door. That will also allow you to determine whether the door speakers are defective.

I have to go to work in a few minutes, but I will search for the wiring information I found when I upgraded my door speakers when I return home tonight.

[KevinH1990]

Here’s a link to a thread I used when I replaced my door speakers. It may contain some helpful information: http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/79558-door-speaker-recommendations.html

I think you are on the right track with your troubleshooting plan. The challenge you face is that all of the equipment you are using is close to 25 years old.

I will look for the amp tomorrow night. I may be able to mail it to you on Thursday. If you want it, send me a pm with your address. I will let you know the shipping cost after I mail it. The amp worked fine when I removed it from the car and replaced it with a 6-channel amplifier from a 996 cabriolet. That doesn’t necessarily mean that it still works, so you might want to consider buying a new after market amp. If you are seriously considering rear speakers you could buy a 6-channel amp and have the capacity to support them when the time is right.

[Radman]

You might find just getting the door speakers is enough to satisfy the audio craving. I replaced dash and door speakers and added a small subwoofer behind the passenger seat and I get decent sound plus still hear the engine. Win/win lol! Good luck.

[elav]

OK, here is an update. KevinH was nice enough to send me his old amp - this is really appreciated! I installed it today and one of the 2 door speakers started working. I then removed the amp and tested each speaker wires with a 9V battery. All the speakers that worked with the amp made a clicking sound when hooked up to the 9V battery. When I did this with the speaker wires going to the driver's door speaker, there was no click, so I have a wiring problem between the amp and the driver's door speaker. It has started raining again, so I'm going to call it a day. I've had that driver door opened a bunch to fix the micro switches, door latch and the lock assembly. There is a good change I forgot to hook that speaker back up the last time I was in there. Here's hoping!

[blue62]

Originally Posted by elav

OK, here is an update. KevinH was nice enough to send me his old amp - this is really appreciated! I installed it today and one of the 2 door speakers started working. I then removed the amp and tested each speaker wires with a 9V battery. All the speakers that worked with the amp made a clicking sound when hooked up to the 9V battery. When I did this with the speaker wires going to the driver's door speaker, there was no click, so I have a wiring problem between the amp and the driver's door speaker. It has started raining again, so I'm going to call it a day. I've had that driver door opened a bunch to fix the micro switches, door latch and the lock assembly. There is a good change I forgot to hook that speaker back up the last time I was in there. Here's hoping!

Be careful what you test with a 9v battery.
Hook it to the wrong wire and you can damage the DME/ECU
The two things to test circuits with are a simple test light.
And A Digital Multi Meter
With a DMM you can test anything electrical on any car.