Oh crap. What should I do?

[Jake Raby]

Note that the coolant temps were just over 210F, normal.. A lower temp T stat would have helped a tad, but not much as the oil temps are at such a great differential to the coolant temps.. Oil temp is just that, oil temp.

The key is:
1- Run an oil developed to operate at temperatures in excess of 250F for sustained periods of time without a loss of pressure or lubricating properties

2-Run an external oil cooler.

NOTHING else is going to be the answer.

The reason why these engines run high oil temps is their tight clearances coupled to tons of friction from 24 valve springs, 5 timing chains, 7 main bearings and etc... The engine is a friction nightmare, so its hard on oil.

Adding a larger oil pump won't make the issue any better, thats just going to make the oil HOTTER!! Bigger pump= even more friction.

Some oils can run 250F+ sustained without issue, but these oils need to be changed every 5-700 miles and cost 13-15 bucks per quart. They do not work well at lower temperatures. Thats the difference in a "race oil" and "street oil".

Either keep the temps down and pressure up or use an oil that will maintain pressure at temperature.

Either way, the issues we see with failed engines on the track aren't from G force aggravated starvation.

[mikefocke]

steps you can take to prevent oil starvation at high-G forces on the track with track tires?

Things like running a baffled sump? Deeper Sump? Additional oil pick-ups? A device that mounts in the trunk and accumulates oil at pressure and then feeds it to the engine when it senses starvation (accusump)?

If you always keep oil between the metal parts, won't the engine temp be lower and the "water" have to work less hard to get rid of the heat?

I'm all for the third radiator and the bigger oil/water heat exchanger too, BTW. Just wondering if there aren't many preventative measures needed.

[Topless]

I have been following this thread and I am very curious now how a "scored bearing" results in:

"P1313 - misfire, cylinder 1, emission relevant
P1316 - misfire, cylinder 4, emission relevant."

These issues may both be true but certainly seem unrelated. Anyone have a clue how these very different conditions might tie together?

[Mike_Yi]

Originally Posted by Topless

I have been following this thread and I am very curious now how a "scored bearing" results in:

"P1313 - misfire, cylinder 1, emission relevant
P1316 - misfire, cylinder 4, emission relevant."

These issues may both be true but certainly seem unrelated. Anyone have a clue how these very different conditions might tie together?

I've been wondering the same thing. Haven't talked to the shop again yet. I'll ask when I do.

[eightsandaces]

Not only are the codes inconsistent but one would think a main crankshaft flaw would be evident whenever the motor was running. I know you meant nothing by it but I still have to LOL at "you guys diagnosed it wrong". As my dad a mechanic by profession used to say, "it's tough to fix cars over the phone, the tools don't reach that far"....

[Mike_Yi]

Apparently I misunderstood. He only drained the oil and looked at the filter. Found bearing material in the filter. Still don't know if there was any kind of association between the codes and the failure.

Yeah. It's tough to diagnose over the inet, but it doesn't stop people from offering opinions. That they were wrong isn't a big deal to me, and I didn't mean it that way. Sorry if it came across that way.

[Steve Tinker]

Ah - ha.....
Metal in the oil filter, cylinders missfiring - this sounds familiar, and I'll bet there's metal particles in your sump too.
Mike, ask your mechanic how he knows its main bearing metal and not big end bearing metal - they are both white metal plain bearings. He may or may not have put a magnet on the debris, but if the metal is ferrous, it could well be your IMS bearing assembly breaking up.

[eightsandaces]

Mike you came across fine I was just goofing. I'm sorry you have to deal with the disappointment of having an expensive repair. I hope the mechanic is wrong, perhaps it's something that will require less money to repair, I hope so, good luck.

[Mike_Yi]

Originally Posted by Steve Tinker

Ah - ha.....
Metal in the oil filter, cylinders missfiring - this sounds familiar, and I'll bet there's metal particles in your sump too.
Mike, ask your mechanic how he knows its main bearing metal and not big end bearing metal - they are both white metal plain bearings. He may or may not have put a magnet on the debris, but if the metal is ferrous, it could well be your IMS bearing assembly breaking up.

Interesting. Tell me more. If I have him put a magnet to the metal bits and they are magnetic, or not, what does that mean? Assume it was the IMS bearing breaking up. Would that mean the engine would be salvageable just by changing the IMS bearing? I though when those went it was catastrophic. If it is the IMS bearing, would there be a chance that the rest of the engine is damaged too?\

If I could just replace the IMS bearing, I could bear those expenses.

Then again, if the IMS was to the point where it was effecting the timing, isn't it likely that there was valve to piston contact?

Would the tensioner also be a potential culprit? Could the metal bits be from the tensioner?