What else to do while I am changing a clutch?

[dirkdiggler]

Clutch is slipping pretty bad and I am sick of it so its getting changed next week.

I got a Sachs clutch kit and going to buy a LUK flywheel becasue I can only assume the flywheel is messed up from driving with worn out clutch.

What else should I do while I am under there?????

1.) check out the IMS bearing
- if bearing looks good should I just leave it or can looks be deceiving??
- Can it even be inspected properly while still in the motor with tranny removed??
- Is there and updated bearing from Porsche I can replace it with thats less than the $500 retro fit one??

2.) replace rear main seal

3.) Replace motor mount

4.) replace all 4 oxygen sensors

5.) replace sparkplugs and o-rings

Any thing else I am missing that should be done while I am under there for the clutch?? keep in mind, My boxster has 60k miles and has been beat pretty bad.

[Lil bastard]

If it were me, I'd also change the Master, Slave and clutch line. Not very expensive and then you're sure you have a whole new system. W/ a new clutch and pressure plate, it's not uncommon that the extra force required to move the new parts can cause the old hydraulics to go south.

I'd do these things before O2 sensors and even RMS (if it's not leaking, leave it alone for now). Spark plugs can be done anytime, so I wouldn't consider it a 'while I'm in there' item. Same with O rings, if the tubes are dry, leave them. They're just as easy to swap later. The thing with seals is there's a great possibility of getting the new seal wrong and have it leak in short order, whereas if you leave a dry seal in place, it's likely to stay that way for some time.

Cheers!

[Cloudsurfer]

The only thing you gain access to with the gearbox removed is the IMS and the RMS. Absolutely replace the RMS with the latest 997 seal. I would strongly advise replacing the IMS bearing with the LN part. The only thing Porsche will sell you is a new unit of the same bearing that you already have in there.

[Steve Tinker]

Even if you bought the Porsche IMS bearing, on top of that cost, you would still have to purchase the puller from LN to remove the old bearing. Why wouldn't you get the upgraded bearing & bolt while you are at it - its a no brainer as far as I'm concerned.....

[dirkdiggler]

If the IMS bearing in the car looks really good is it recommended to just leave it?? or can a perfect "looking" bearing fail quickly also??

I am not sure if my mechanic buddy even has the tool to remove the IMS bearing ...... thats why I ask.


My car has 60k .... is it recommend to change the master slave cylinder this early? where is it even located?


I am mainly just looking for things I can replace myself while my buddy does the clutch job. I would rather take advantage of the car lift while I can rather than have to use my garage floor jack later for these little things

[Lil bastard]

Two schools of thought on shaft seals (RMS); Do em while you're in there, and, If it's dry, it's doing it's job and leave it alone.

I favor the latter because it's not as simple as just pulling the old one and putting the new one in. When replacing the RMS, you need to precisely inset it 13mm from the original seal and absolutely perpendicular to the shaft plane or it's going to leak. If your mechanic doesn't have the Porsche seal press, there's likely to be a wide variance from these specs and it's sure to leak in just a few miles causing you to either live with it, or re-do the whole thing.

But, do as you see fit.

The master is mounted on the frunk firewall just ahead of the clutch pedal. It shares the same fluid reservoir as the brake master, so be sure to add some proper brake fluid (2ltrs.) to the list and flush/bleed the brakes while you're doing the clutch or you'll contaminate the whole system. Brake flush/bleed is a bi-annual maintenance item anyway, so likely you're due.

Cheers!

[dirkdiggler]

I just saw pelican parts Super clutch kit they sell. Do I really need to have all these parts replaced when I change a clutch? I know the main components obviously but even all the little stuff too?

• Clutch Disc
• Pressure Plate
• Pressure Plate Bolts
• Throw Out Bearing
• Clutch Release Lever
• Guide Tube
• O-Ring for Guide Tube
• Pivot Piece for Clutch Release Lever
• Retaining Spring for Clutch Release Lever
• Ball Pin for Clutch Release Lever
• Flywheel
• Flywheel Bolts
• Flywheel Seal
• Transmission Mainshaft Seal
• Pilot Bearing

[jmatta]

A car with 60k miles...I wouldn't even think twice about replacing the IMS bearing with the LN design; worth every cent IMO.

[Cloudsurfer]

There's no way to inspect the IMS bearing short of pulling the bearing out, which you'll need the LN tools to do, and once you have the old one out, regardless of how it looked, I wouldn't even remotely consider putting the old one back in (assuming that the LN installation tool would even work to push in a factory bearing).

If you don't have access to the factory RMS tool, I'm not sure I'd try it without, as I'd think there's a good chance you wouldn't get it right and then it would leak, and then be super upset to have to go back in there a few weeks later.

As to the clutch, if your original flywheel is in good shape, re-use it. You should always replace clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and release bearing when doing a clutch. The clutch slave is easy enough to do later if it fails, as it's outside the bell housing.

Always use new flywheel bolts, though you can re-use the clutch bolts I replace them, personally.

[gschotland]

At 70k my RMS was dry and original, but it was changed anyway while Jake was in doing the clutch, flywheel & IMSR. At $100 or so for the parts kit, and in light of the fact that there have been improvements in the RMS made over the years., it seems ridiculous not to do it. Just because it hasn't leaked so far doesn't mean it won't tomorrow.

[Lil bastard]

Originally Posted by dirkdiggler

I just saw pelican parts Super clutch kit they sell. Do I really need to have all these parts replaced when I change a clutch? I know the main components obviously but even all the little stuff too?

• Clutch Disc
• Pressure Plate
• Pressure Plate Bolts
• Throw Out Bearing
• Clutch Release Lever
• Guide Tube
• O-Ring for Guide Tube
• Pivot Piece for Clutch Release Lever
• Retaining Spring for Clutch Release Lever
• Ball Pin for Clutch Release Lever
• Flywheel
• Flywheel Bolts
• Flywheel Seal
• Transmission Mainshaft Seal
• Pilot Bearing

It depends on many factors incl.; How thorough you want to do the job, What is your budget, what is your level of interest in the car... keep it forever? Sell it after a couple years?, etc.

There isn't a part on their list that that shouldn't be there as far as I can see. Will your car grenade if you don't do them all? Probably not, but they will make the clutch feel 'as new' as opposed to just a new clutch.

It's your car and your money. Do as many or as few as you deem necessary.

Cheers!

[Cloudsurfer]

Originally Posted by gschotland

At 70k my RMS was dry and original, but it was changed anyway while Jake was in doing the clutch, flywheel & IMSR. At $100 or so for the parts kit, and in light of the fact that there have been improvements in the RMS made over the years., it seems ridiculous not to do it. Just because it hasn't leaked so far doesn't mean it won't tomorrow.

You mean about $12 for the parts?

[gschotland]

Originally Posted by Cloudsurfer

You mean about $12 for the parts?

The RMS replacement was included in the flat rate price for the IMSR, clutch, flywheel etc., and was not optional. The only part I supplied was the flywheel. $100 was the number I recalled hearing for the RMS kit. Since mine never leaked I never thought about it or priced it on my own.

$12 certainly makes it even more of a no-brainer.

[Steve Tinker]

Umm - I'm lost re the last comment!!
Perhaps I'm not clever enough to understand........