Window Regulator - permanent fix for stretched cable
 

I finally got around to opening up the door panel to install my (hopefully) permanent fix for the problem of too much slack in the window regulator cable. The sympton of my problem was that the window would not drop enough to clear the top when I opened the passenger side door. The window would still roll up and down properly, it just wouldn't drop enough to clear the top. The window had excessive play in the cable system, which could be felt by rolling the window 1/2 way down and then pulling up and down on the glass. The window would easily move at least 1/2 inch up and down. (Update: I used to think it was because the cable stretched, but someone in this thread pointed out that there is a small plastic guide that breaks causing the cable to have excessive slack. - So I now believe this is truly a permament fix if done before the cable frays at the motor.)

I used a $3.00 bicycle brake cable adjustment barrel to take up the slack and add some adjustability to the window regulator system. Hopefully this will be a permanent fix. It was pretty easy to install and did not require the window regulator to be removed from the door.
I had to drill out the front lower corner bracket a small amount and I had to remove the original factory end from the cable housing. All of this was easily doable while installed in the door. This what the final fix looks like:

http://i44.tinypic.com/2vs0uoo.jpg

You may remember my temporary fix from another thread:
http://i41.tinypic.com/2ahywya.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/2554co9.jpg

Nice DIY. Thanks for the update.

Very, VERY, ingenious!

You should patent this idea!

Thanks for sharing. :cheers:

Regards, Maurice.

I can adjust the tension on the window regulator cable now by simply removing my aftermarket door speaker to gain access. Somebody shoulld send this thread to Porsche. Too bad for everyone that they didn't think of it.

Interesting idea, though not terribly convenient. Having to screw around with one adjustment in a rain storm after going through a toll both, for example, would really piss me off. Then again, if I couldn't (or refused to) spring for a new regulator I'd probably be figuring out ways to avoid using toll roads and bridges, because everyone know what a gouge they are.

The window operates perfectly, like new again. I don't expect to ever have to adjust this again, but just in case, it's now a very easy task. I suspect that if the cable stretches more, I'll have to bite the bullet and replace the regulator. It will be interesting to see how permanent the fix really is. For the time being I'm very happy with the way it worked out. Took less than an hour total time to do it, and I got the adjuster barrel for free from a friend who's into bicycles, so not much of an investment.
Oh, and I'm not poor, just frugal ( - and not crazy frugal or I wouldn't own a Boxster in the first place). I thought I'd pass along this tip because of the huge number of these that fail early in the life of our Boxsters - mine had 20,000 miles on it. Why throw away $140-$200 when you don't need to, only to buy the same crappy part that will fail again in 20,000 miles?

I think that's a great mod Dave. Very clever and simple. Thanks for posting!

The cable really doesn't...
 

... stretch.
There's a plastic guide inside the regulator that breaks (with age) and lets the cable have a bit of slack.
That's why people tend to think that the cable has stretched.
I love your inventiveness.
I had done something similar with a ferrule cut to size, but it was not adjustable and it moved a bit.
Thanks for sharing your solution.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Now that makes a lot of sense as it seemed pretty odd to me that the cable would have actually stretched. I have only seen a couple of pictures of the regulator removed from the door. Any chance you might have an illustration where the plastic guide that fails is located? I'd like to learn more about the failure mode.

Permanent fix for window not dropping when door opens
 

I've received a few PMs regarding this mod. Just thought I'd post that a year later (4k miles) it still is working fine. Admittedly I only drive the car on nice days, usually on the weekends, so it doesn't get that much use. My wife is usually with me, so the passenger door gets almost as much use as the driver's door.
I have never been back into the door, so no adjustments have been required and it still works like the day I did this fix.
I think ppbon is correct that the cable never stretched as I orginally thought. His post regarding a plastic guide that breaks causes the excessive slack in the window regulator seems right on the money. I wish I could change the title of this thread to read, "Permanent fix for window not dropping when door opens".

Dave S.

Yes this does work, I did this to my driver's side regulator cable and it's holding-up fine. Although if I rememeber correctly I used tie wraps on just one end of the cable (one location).

Just one more example / reason I love this site so much!!

Chuckbh
 

Thanks DaveS
I just saw your post and I had the same problem with my window. I had a cable adjuster from a bike laying around and I just screwed it into the blue plastic piece and it works GREAT !!! I didn't need to even to adjust it plus I checked the cable tension and it is not too tight and just a little slack.What would we do without the internet?

Glad you had the same results I did. Nice to fix for pennies as opposed to hundreds of $$.

was it hard to take off the door to access this cable?

Not too bad. I followed these instructions:

Boxster Projects | Power Window Motor Repair

thanks Dave. any else try this mod? i called my local bike shop and going to pick up this brake cable piece tomm. im not very mechanically inclined though i did switch out the ignition switch :)

yeah my problem also, when opening the door, window does not completely go down so than i push glass down, shut it and it goes up tight.

for now. before exit, i use button to lower the window slightly. when out, i use my key to turn the key to the left and it makes the window go up to seal. pain in the butt but ok for now.

Did this "fix" on Monday. $2 part at the local bike shop. Or, if you've got a good reputation with them, free!

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1346283253.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1346283273.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1346283341.jpg

Or, you can buy an OEM replacement part from an eBayer for $108.99 shipped. From others on these forums, I hear it's a quality part:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150590554947?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1438.l2649

so those green pieces are the oem and you got rid of them ? did you have to wedge the brake piece into the housing?