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In photo 1, you can see the green piece broke into two, and was binding on the pulley.
Photo 2 shows the barrel adjuster. It's the perfect size to fit into the groove of the frame. Photo 3 shows the other end of the frame, with an intact green piece, just for reference, to see how it's supposed to fit when it doesn't break and look like photo 1. |
thanks for explanation! that makes sense!!
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when you take off the door, what position should you have the window ?
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in my experience, if you're going to work on the regulator, anything butt the fully lowered postion. half way if i had a choice, makes getting to the regulator feet easier, as well as removing the speaker box.
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When I did mine, I had the window fully open. But when I had to loosen the clamps that hold the glass, I fully closed it. When fully raised, there are openings that give you access to the clamps.
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great thanks very much!!!
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When I fixed mine, I left the window almost all the way up. I didn't remove the regulator or the glass, just added the barrel adjuster to the front lower pully by accessing through the opening in the door after removing the interior panel. It is really very easy to do
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Lucky dog, Dave S. My regulator (and glass) had to come out because the part that broke was at the top/rear. Not accessible from the bottom of the door. :(
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just bought two of them. will try it this weekend. thanks Dave for the innovation and others for guidance.
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bar10. did you take off the circle adjustment in yours? i see it in the first but not the middle pic(installed)
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I did. I found that the nut was not necessary. At least, in my installation. Others may have varying needs.
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bar, w/o it, are you worried it might pop off cable?
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No, there's plenty of tension on the line and the opening on the barrel is facing inwards.
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bar, did you just cut open the green adapter? i have everything open. mine appeared in tact. or should i just add zip ties like chuck did.
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ok i added three zip ties to tighten the cable at the top of the spring. like in chucks original temp. fix. do you guys think this will hold up? will wait for advice before sealing up the door panel. thanks in advance!
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dave, how did you remove the green fact housing to keep the cable tension? just dremel it off? mine was intact.
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ok i tried it with the zip ties. no diff. :( the tension was def. a lot tighter but it didnt seem to make a diff. do you guys think i have a diff problem?
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In fact, the whole basis of this thread is to repair the broken green piece with a bike cable barrel adjuster. If all your green pieces are intact, your problem lies elsewhere. More troubleshooting would be required. Go back and search/read through a few of the threads that talk about the window not dropping properly and you'll see ways to check yours out. There are many sensors that can be at fault. Two in the door (outer/inner handles) one in the convertible top portion of the top center of the windshield, can't remember the rest right now. If your window isn't dropping when you open the door, is it the same with both the innner and the outer handles? Others will chime in, I'm sure, to try to help you out. However, since you've got the door apart and probably want to resolve this rather quickly so you can get the car back together, you may have to resort to just searching/reading older threads on your own to save yourself some time. Good luck! I know how much of a pain it is to have a car half apart just sitting in the driveway... :) |
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If it fits into the barrel adjuster you are using, you might want to leave it on there. |
yeah thanks guys for your advice. i put it back together. yes window does not come down from the inside and outside. but if i push it down when im outside, and than close the door. it ll come back up. I'm thinking now it might be one of the sensors. but ill inquire in another thread. dave. so both your green adapters were intact also?
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