Clutch Questions?

[dirkdiggler]

My Clutch is slipping when I am in 4th and 5th gear...its not horrible but very obvious..... if I take it easy on it, How long can I continue to drive the car before the clutch no longer works?? days, week, month??

Where is the cheapest place to buy a Sachs Clutch?? found Sachs for $340
Where is the cheapest place to buy a Flywheel?? Found LUK brand for $520

What does it typically cost to have a flywheel resurfaced? and what type of shops are able too do it?

thanks guys

[Spinnaker]

The dual mass flywheel cannot be resurfaced if it is damaged. It must be replaced. This is one of the costs of owning a Boxster.

[coreseller]

That ebay price is as good as you're going to find, at least it was a few months ago when I bought mine. Spinnaker is right, you cannot have the dual mass flywheel resurfaced. You can clean it up with a palm sander / die grinder and several abrasive discs (like I did, only 38k miles on it though). There is a procedure to check if your flywheel is within spec, it measures the deflection between the two metal sections.

"Can the DMF be twisted by approx. 15 mm to both the left and the right, and does it then return to approximately its initial position?" -- then the flywheel is good.

"Can the DMF be twisted beyond the dimension stated above (excessive turn) without a noticeable increase in the spring force?" or "Is the DMF fixed (can not be twisted)?" -- then the flywheel is bad.

Hope this helps....

[dirkdiggler]

Hi

thanks guys

I see others saying that they have had theirs re-surfaced.........

Is it impossible to resurface them or will shops just not do it?

[JoeFromPA]

A shop should not re-surface a well-used, well-aged dual mass flywheel period. For a relatively newer DM flywheel, a shop MIGHT smooth out the surface as coreseller described.

[dirkdiggler]

Considering my Clutch is slipping in 4th and 5th gear ...... does that generally mean the flywheel is destroyed?

and

How long can I drive it while it slips a little? days, weeks.....months??

[Boxtaboy]

I don't think anyone can reliably tell you how long your clutch will last now that it has already started to slip. It can be days or weeks, but why take the risk of getting stranded? Just replace it asap.

[dirkdiggler]

My mechanic friend is pretty booked up for the next 2 weeks and can get squeeze me in for a larger job like this really soon.

Just trying to get an idea of how long others have driven there boxster with the clutch slipping, just to get an idea.


If it is slipping, does that mean the flywheel is junk already?

[JoeFromPA]

Hi Dirk,

People have gotten years out of a slipping clutch, and people have lost it completely in one day. Here's a guide to lengthening the time before it becomes undrivable:

1. DO NOT SLIP THE CLUTCH - What kills off a clutch quickly is when the surface "melts" and glazes over. This reduces it's ability to hold the flywheel through friction. If you see your clutch slipping, stop. Downshift, or remove your foot from the gas pedal, or whatever is needed.

2. Rev-match your downshifts

3. This one not everyone argees on - I think it's important to engage first/second gears very quickly, even to the point of having some jerkiness. The point is to avoid the usual slight clutch slippage each time. Furthermore, if part of your clutch is glazed, a bit of jerkiness might help it restore it's friction.

4. Avoid "high load" situations. Your clutch experiences the highest load when it's asked to do the most work with the least potential to accomplish that work. The best example is trying to accelerate up a steep hill in 5th gear from 35mph....that's a very high load situation. Stay in lower gears and perform moderate or slow acceleration.

Slipping in 4th and 5th gear is a sign that your friction material is no longer sufficient. But as long as you keep the clutch from slipping more, you should be able to drive the car regularly until it starts to slip in 2nd gear (that's when it's REALLY time to get it replaced).

Joe

[dirkdiggler]

Thank you Joe, Just what I needed to hear..... I will implement your recommendations into my driving habits until my buddy can get me in the shop

thanks

[Lordblood]

Originally Posted by JoeFromPA

Hi Dirk,

People have gotten years out of a slipping clutch, and people have lost it completely in one day. Here's a guide to lengthening the time before it becomes undrivable:

1. DO NOT SLIP THE CLUTCH - What kills off a clutch quickly is when the surface "melts" and glazes over. This reduces it's ability to hold the flywheel through friction. If you see your clutch slipping, stop. Downshift, or remove your foot from the gas pedal, or whatever is needed.

2. Rev-match your downshifts

3. This one not everyone argees on - I think it's important to engage first/second gears very quickly, even to the point of having some jerkiness. The point is to avoid the usual slight clutch slippage each time. Furthermore, if part of your clutch is glazed, a bit of jerkiness might help it restore it's friction.

4. Avoid "high load" situations. Your clutch experiences the highest load when it's asked to do the most work with the least potential to accomplish that work. The best example is trying to accelerate up a steep hill in 5th gear from 35mph....that's a very high load situation. Stay in lower gears and perform moderate or slow acceleration.

Slipping in 4th and 5th gear is a sign that your friction material is no longer sufficient. But as long as you keep the clutch from slipping more, you should be able to drive the car regularly until it starts to slip in 2nd gear (that's when it's REALLY time to get it replaced).

Joe

Before my clutch and flywheel went, I was able to drive about a month and a half with it starting to slip to it slipping in EVERY GEAR. I didn't follow any of the steps listed by Joe, so it should last a month and a half (maybe 500-1000 miles). HOWEVER, I highly recommend getting it repaired ASAP! Before you know it you'll be stranded with a paperweight and then it's just a bigger pain in the butt than before.