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Old 07-26-2010, 03:22 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by dirkdiggler
The aftermarket better IMS bearing cost $550?? ..... gezzz $550 for just a bearing seems nuts?? or are there other parts included?

I see what everyone is saying about it being a money pit but what if i find nice bosxter for $8-$9k and it still needs a new updated IMS bearing and clutch and other odds and ends.
Welcome to the world of big boy's toys. While there are a lot of Porsches running around, they are still considered exotic and parts are priced accordingly. Expect 3-4x more expensive than "normal" parts (my brother was discussing the $600 factory replacement digital clock for his 89 944T). That's why I suggested you price out the parts this car needs BEFORE you buy it so you have a baseline for what it's going to cost you.

You also make a true stmt about buying a $9K box. But what you do is look for one that has everything documented and has already replaced the weak parts so you don't have to. Chances are you won't find an IMS replacement, as this fix is relatively new. It's a buyer's mkt, these nice boxs are out there if you take some time and look.

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Old 07-26-2010, 03:48 AM   #42
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I like how the OP thinks he's still getting a deal for the car when there's like half dozen of us have come forward with our 1st hand experiences, along with current market condition for these cars. On top of that he's getting an engine light, and he'll take it to his buddy's shop which doesn't specialize on Porsches...

Let me go grab my popcorn...
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:16 AM   #43
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Quote:
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Let me go grab my popcorn...
I'm in
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:45 AM   #44
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I've got mixed feelings on this one. Some of you guys sound like you wouldn't tow the car home if it were free. Assuming the worst, and the engine needs to be replaced, the rolling chassis has got to be worth $4000. I sold a 97 Eclipse a couple years ago with a known blown engine for only slightly less than that. Crumpled cars of that age sell from salvage lots fro much less than that. Here's an example:

http://www.easyexport.us/carfinder/vehicle/CLEAN_TITLE_PARTIAL%2FINCOMPLETE_REPAIR_1998_PORSC HE_BOXSTER_11455550
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:32 AM   #45
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I have been using the search function alot and seeing that most of the issues this car has are sorta common ..... at least others have experienced them too.

I would just really hate to buy a $10k bosxter an then have to dump the same amount of cash into fixing it as i would have if I bought the $3k one.

Cars are horrible investments and a used Porsche is definitely a gamble ..... this I am aware of.

Im going to try and stop at my buddies shop today and see if he can give me some concrete price points on some of the main problems that need to be fixed on this $3k money pit.

Thanks a ton to everyone that has replied and anyone else that has any input for me ..... please feel free to throw your 2-cents in .... good or bad
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:15 AM   #46
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I would not tow the car home if someone offered it to me for free. I would tow it to a wrecker and split the parting out proceeds 50/50

See the thing about a Porsche that has not been well maintained is that there are

#1-the problems you know about
#2-the problems they didn't tell you about
#3- the probems no one investigated with a top down check.
#4-the problems you'll never get to because you spent all your $$ on 1-3.

I suppose I would go through the hassle if we were talking about a rare limited edition sports car. But that's simply not the case for this car. They made a truck load of them and many just sat in people's garages for Sunday drives.
Those are the ones you want to buy, not these.

See the beauty of someone waiting to save more cash for a used garage queen Porsche is that during that savings period the prices plummet but the mileage only goes up a little.
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Old 07-26-2010, 12:30 PM   #47
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and on the upside, My auto insurance will go down $20 a month on the porsche vs. my current car...... i did even call to get a real accurate quote
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Old 07-26-2010, 12:33 PM   #48
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can you post pictures of what this $4K Boxster looks like?

In six years of this forum that is easily the lowest price I've ever heard offered for a 1997 or any Boxster for that matter.
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:53 PM   #49
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Pictures I have are attached
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:25 PM   #50
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doesn't look too terrible, although its seems to be very stripped down of factory options that make it look pretty dated but then again those probably weren't offered in 1997. How much are you budgeting to get this car in PROPER running order? And how much of a safety fund are you setting aside?
How long do you intend to keep the car? end of the year or at least one year?
Is this going to be a daily driven car or a once week fun car?
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:30 PM   #51
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even if you talk your friend down to 3K you're going to put at least $10-11k into the car. For an extra $1K you could have bought this Boxster that will probably end up selling for $15K and has the revamped 2.7 engine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Boxster-Beautifully-kept-Guards-Red-Beige-interior-/320564563272?cmd=ViewItem&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4aa3230d48
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:35 PM   #52
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I'm curious about the seam of the hood and front bumper. Looks like there's a bit more of a gap on the driver's side...not sure if that's just the angle of the pic, though. I only raise the question because I've seen the same thing on mine, though I'm aware of why it is that way (my car was a collision repair).

Which brings me to my next question regarding this car, dirkdiggler: are you aware of whether or not the car is a salvage? Have you seen the title and whether or not is is stamped as a salvage? That could have something to do with the price, and may make you want to look into other things that may be amiss due to any accident(s) prior to you laying eyes on it. You don't want to pick up something that's been beaten up or damaged in a flood.

Other than that, only things I notice from there are 16" wheels and no wind deflector between the roll hoops. Otherwise, looks a lot like mine...
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:38 PM   #53
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Dirk,

My opinion on this car: view it as a roller parts car. 3K seems to be a good deal for a roller. Drive it until the engine pops. Then sell it for parts. You'll probably break even, and if you are lucky you get several months, perhaps a year, of driving enjoyment out of it. View that as a bonus.

DO NOT put money into it, trying to restore it... you will not get that money back. There is too much wrong with this car to justify fixing things. Don't fix the RMS. Don't install new shocks. Don't retrofit the IMS. Make sure the brakes and seat belts work

Remember, it's a parts car that also happens to run and drive.

Of course, just my opinion.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:10 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Fluellen
Dirk,

Make sure the brakes and seat belts work
that just made me laugh out loud.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:40 PM   #55
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I am not 100% sure if it is even the RMS leaking becasue it appears to be coming from the upper part of the motor and leaking down and getting on alot of stuff..... I assume if the RMS or IMS is leaking it would only leak from the lower area where the tranny meets the motor .... correct?

I looked in my area and 200 mile radius and all the boxsters i find are $9500 and up and have way more miles and dont mention anything about having the IMS updated......which means more money to put in.

The Body on this car is not perfect by any means but to be honest I almost prefer it that way ............ if I get door dings and scratches I will not care as much becasue it wasnt perfect to begin with.

Budget:

buy car for $3k-$4k

RMS = $45
IMS = $550
Clutch = $400
- Labor = $800


Security computer thing under seat = $500 .... assuming I cant dry it out real good and save it.

2 used tires = $150 on craigslist
or
set of 17 inch rims with tires = can most likely find pretty cheap


Brake pads i can do myself for not too much $$

Just buying it and figuring out the computer situation so it will start consistently and driving it as is doesn't sound like a bad idea at this point either.
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:18 PM   #56
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Cool

It does look like the gap between the hood and bumper are not even but it's hard to tell from that angle. I thought there was a goose egg size dent in the right rear fender on top also. I guess you could just clean it, make sure it's safe to drive and go for it without spending any money for it you did not need to. I would wait and save so that I could buy one in better shape, but that's just me.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:32 PM   #57
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Although unusual, it is possible that that oil leak is coming from the oil cooler. There are 4 rubber gaskets between the block and oil cooler. Its located on the top drivers side rear of the block. Check to see if that oil is coming from that area.
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Old 07-27-2010, 01:28 AM   #58
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How did the clamshell get damaged? From the pic it looks like there's a wrinkle in the passenger side of the clamshell and the little piece aft of the door if missing. Is this related to why your top doesn't work?
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:48 AM   #59
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Hi Guys

i flipped the coin this morning and it told me to buy the car ...... so i did and was able to get the guy down too $3500.

My mechanic said its not the rear main seal leaking..... mostlikely the sparkplug seal things leaking.

So ..... i am officially a porsche owner for the low price of $3499.99 ......... let the problems begin!

First prob I would like to address today hopefully:


i DO NOT have the actual key remotes for the car ..... only the valet key

The front trunk and rear trunk release levers seem to be locked and cant figure out how to get them too release??

is there a sequence i need to perform with the valet ket to get them to open? or something else i need to do??

I tried searching and cant find a solution?

thanks
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Old 07-27-2010, 02:00 PM   #60
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DD,


regarding the keys. Start the car (oh wait it doesn't start )..
Put the key in the door lock. lock the door, you should hear the actuators in the door lock. Stick the key back in and unlock the door. Get in the car. Put the key in the ignition all the way to the right. open the door and pull up on the front and rear trunk levers.

Let's play a game: How far and long can I drive this car without putting more than $100 into it. Come back post how many miles you've racked up.

p.s.
that seems like a lot of oil for it to be coming from cracked coil packs. That's another DIY. But I'm not expert on wrenching...this car has been so reliable for me that I've rarely had to touch it. It has yupiefied me.

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