Window not coming down upon entering

[Viper5]

I have a 2000 Boxster S convertible and I just noticed that on my passenger side, the window doesn't drop enough to have clearance for the top. When I start to pull the handle, I can hear the motor and the window does move a little, but not as much as it should because when I try to open it, it gets caught by the top. Is this a common problem with an easy solution? I'm gonna go out later to try and mess with it to see if it's just a temporary thing, but I just thought I'd ask about that. Thanks in advance.

[sb01box]

Viper5,
there's been high thread traffic regards to the door lock mechanism and window operation.
Reported corrective action listed in this form spans from replacement of the lock mechanism, the switch on the outer door, bad spring in the mechanism, bad solder joint inside the door mechanism (my car) and worn window regulator.
my 2 cent, I suspect you are experiencing a worn window regulator - my car is doing the same now even after the re-learning process.
they say that the outer sleeve gets compressed, thus inducing a larger dead band where the motor does turn but percentage of the motor motion is taken up by the deadband (slop) and so the window does not lower enough.
normal window operation, i.e. full up, full down operator control motion is not affected.
You may want to perform quick testing outlined in the link below. & let us know of your findings. I may be plowing down the same path very soon.

good luck.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/77-BODY-Window_Regulator/77-BODY-Window_Regulator.htm

http://www.ppbb.com/phorum/read.php?19,1565400,1565407

[Viper5]

Thanks for the info. Will try to get to it later.

[97 Boxster]

Just to chime in, my door was not locking and the window was not dropping on my Drivers side as well. It also would not drop to close the door. This was such a pain in the butt.

Yesterday I took out the Door Lock Mechanism and cleaned the connections and checked all the visible parts I could. My Bentley manual showed the Door lock mechanism and when I removed mine and compared the two I noticed that my spring on my door lock (page 57-8 in the Bentley Manual) was not connected to the spring hook.

I hooked this up and lubricated what I felt necessary and reassembled and it now works like a charm.

No lock button on dash crap like before and window drops as it should.

Hope this helps.

[Dave S.]

My passenger door was doing the same thing. If I pushed down on the window when the door was open it would drop the normal distance so you could close it without the window hanging up on the convertible top.
I found that with the window rolled 1/2 way down I could pull it up and down and make it move about 3/4 of an inch.
The cable system on the window regulator seemed to be stretched out, so I was able to at least temporarily fix mine by taking some of the slack out of the cable. Since there are no cable adjusters, I made one from a zip tie wire ties. See the pictures below. This fix allows the window to drop enough to clear the top and I'm going to look at adding a bicycle brake line adjuster to the system so that I can dial it in better.
Thank god the door panel comes off very easily, with only about 4 screws and some clips holding it on.

Instructions to remove the door panel can be found here:
http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/

[deliriousga]

I had the same problem recently on the driver's side. It was the regulator so I replaced it using the Bentley manual. It took about 1 1/2-2 hours and wasn't bad.

If you do it, check with your fingers and make sure the forward part of the glass is actually down in the clamp that's on the regulator. Otherwise you will waste another hour or so like I did trying to figure out why the darn thing wouldn't raise and lower properly. I thought it was in, but when I stuck my finger over there it was sitting on top of the clamp.

Good luck!

[Yoadrian]

Originally Posted by deliriousga

I had the same problem recently on the driver's side. It was the regulator so I replaced it using the Bentley manual. It took about 1 1/2-2 hours and wasn't bad.

If you do it, check with your fingers and make sure the forward part of the glass is actually down in the clamp that's on the regulator. Otherwise you will waste another hour or so like I did trying to figure out why the darn thing wouldn't raise and lower properly. I thought it was in, but when I stuck my finger over there it was sitting on top of the clamp.

Good luck!

Hi. I believe my passenger side regulator has bitten the dust. The window has had a really tough time going up for the past two weeks and it would start to drop down after getting halfway up, even while I was holding the button down to raise the window. Last night, I had to actually manually pull up on the window to get it all the way up.

How difficult would you rate the do it yourself job of repalcing the regulator with the assistance of a Bentley manual? I know this is somewhat subjective, but to give you an idea, I am not very mechanically inclined...

Stealership wants $670 for the job. LOL

[Viper5]

Originally Posted by deliriousga

I had the same problem recently on the driver's side. It was the regulator so I replaced it using the Bentley manual. It took about 1 1/2-2 hours and wasn't bad.

If you do it, check with your fingers and make sure the forward part of the glass is actually down in the clamp that's on the regulator. Otherwise you will waste another hour or so like I did trying to figure out why the darn thing wouldn't raise and lower properly. I thought it was in, but when I stuck my finger over there it was sitting on top of the clamp.

Good luck!

Can you please describe the exact problem you were having? There seems to be many variations of the "window not working" category. Also, how much did that part cost you?

[Viper5]

Originally Posted by Dave S.

My passenger door was doing the same thing. If I pushed down on the window when the door was open it would drop the normal distance so you could close it without the window hanging up on the convertible top.
I found that with the window rolled 1/2 way down I could pull it up and down and make it move about 3/4 of an inch.
The cable system on the window regulator seemed to be stretched out, so I was able to at least temporarily fix mine by taking some of the slack out of the cable. Since there are no cable adjusters, I made one from a zip tie wire ties. See the pictures below. This fix allows the window to drop enough to clear the top and I'm going to look at adding a bicycle brake line adjuster to the system so that I can dial it in better.
Thank god the door panel comes off very easily, with only about 4 screws and some clips holding it on.

Instructions to remove the door panel can be found here:
http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/

I don't know what you mean when you say it looked stretched out. And that 1/2 way rolled down statement didn't make sense to me. Were you having the same problem as me or a variation? I don't understand your original problem.

[Dave S.]

Originally Posted by Viper5

I don't know what you mean when you say it looked stretched out. And that 1/2 way rolled down statement didn't make sense to me. Were you having the same problem as me or a variation? I don't understand your original problem.

I had the exact same symptoms as you have. The window worked just fine, but would not drop enought to clear the top when you opened the door.
In my case it turned out that the cable system in the window regulator had stretched out. If I opend the door, I could manually push the window down about 1/2 inch by pushing down on the glass. When I closed the door the window would go back up as normal.
I disconnected the battery when removing the inner door panel, then reconnected it to watch the mechanism work. I found that with the window rolled 1/2 way down, I could pull up on the glass and make the window move up and downabout 1/2 inch by just pulling up on the glass itself. This is very different from my driver's door, where the window stays where it is.
I found that the cable had stretched out, so I needed to take up some of the slack. It's not perfect, but it now drops enough to clear the top by adding the spacers to the cable sleeves as shown on my pictures.
Hopes that helps.
Dave S.