Window doesn't drop

[Dave S.]

So I tried the search but didn't see that same issue:

Today the passenger door window wouldn't drop enough to clear the top when you open the door, and then when my wife closed it, it hung up outside the top. I opened the door and the window drops slightly, but not enough, and then if I push down or sligthly forward on the back edge of the widow it drops, the rest of the way it is supposed to. When you close the door it goes all the way up.
So it seems that something is allowing the glass to hang up even though the mechanism is lowering the proper amount.
Has anyone had the issue and if so how do you fix it. I've already told my wife to stop closing the door by pushing on the window;-).

Dave S.

[pk2]

You might do a search here. There is a trick that involves winding the windows all the way down (or up) and holding for 15 seconds. This resets your windows computer calibration. May or may not be your problem.

Regards, PK

[Dave S.]

Thanks. I actually ran the windows all the way up and all the way down several times and they work fine, like I said, when you open the door, the window mechanism seems to drop, bu the glass only moves slightly down, and I can manually push the glass down another 1/4 inch or so by pushing down on the window. When you close the door, it goes all the way up.
It's a 2003 Boxster S with 20,000 miles on it. I was wondering if there is something that needs to be lubed or a part where the window connects to the mechanism that gets loose of worn ouy quickly. And I'm sure it doesn't help that my wife has a habit of closing the door by pushing on the window.

Dave S.

Originally Posted by pk2

You might do a search here. There is a trick that involves winding the windows all the way down (or up) and holding for 15 seconds. This resets your windows computer calibration. May or may not be your problem.

Regards, PK

[jhandy]

like pk2 said, they may need to be reset.

first un plug your battery. then hook it back up. you can tell if they have been reset because when you tap the switch, they dont auto go down like they did before.

now. with the top up and locked, door closed, put the window up and down , and up and down, and up and down.... you can tell when the computer learned when you tap the switch and the window auto goes down.

now open the door, the window should drop.

if it still hangs than you know you have a physical problem rather than an electrical.

the door rails are known to crap out. I would carfully take off the door panel at this point and look to the window on the rails, see if it is hung up on some junk like a piece of broken sound proofing.

while you are at it hit the rails and the gears with some white lithium grease in a spray can.

that should do it.

[m208334]

"Today the passenger door window wouldn't drop enough to clear the top when you open the door"

1. I had the battery disconnected and both of my doors all of the sudden no longer perform the "Drop-down feature" correctly. The Bentley manual instructs to perform a "Window Motor Standardization" by raising the window with the top closed and holding the window up button for 5 seconds. Others suggest running the window up, then down, then up, double clicking the up button, then running windows down and double clicking the window button. There are other variations, but none are working. My window is moving a little, but is still brushing the top. If standardization is successful, the window would drop 13mm (1/2 inch) when a door is opened and would clear the top.

2. The Bentley manual indicates that if standardization does not work, then the a manual adjustment of the window regulator is needed. The window adjustment involves mounting screws (fore/aft), clamping jaw (window angle), Torx (window height), and rails (window rake..alias sealing). Some people suggest that the dealers just replace the window regulator when this problem occurs (maybe because the rails are damaged or the stop is broken).

3. I have also heard that the Central Locking Computer (CLC) controls the window and is known to cause erratic window behavior...especially if the CLC gets wet (located under left seat).

4. There are various micro-switches (1998-2000)that determines if the top is open, inner/outer door handle is pulled, or the a door/bonnet/trunk are opened. This signals are used by the CLC/alarm and to control window/latch opening/closing. The CLC receives almost every signal on the car.

Window Motor Pin 1 <- Contact Switch (from Door)
Window Motor Pin 2 <- Comfort Close (from Pin 42 of CLC)
Window Motor Pin 8 <- Comfort Open (From Pin 40 of CLC)
Window Motor Pin 5 <- Release Tap Up (From Splice 132, from Fuse B6)
Window Motor Pin 3 <- Move Window Down (From Center Console Window Button)
Window Motor Pin 4 <- Move Window Up (From Center Console Window Button)
Window Motor Pin 7 <- 12V
Window Motor Pin 6 <- GND
Door Lock Pin 3 <- Lock (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 8 <- GND
Door Lock Pin 5 <- Key Contact Closed (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 6 <- Key Contact Open (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 4 <- Door Contact (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 7 <- Safe Contact (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 2 <- CL Motor (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 1 <- CLS (From Door Lock Module)
Door Lock Pin 9 <- Safe Motor (From Door Lock Module)
Conv Top Microswitch Lock & Unlock <- Conv Top Open/Close (From CLC Pin I/6)

The inside and outside door handles are spliced together with the Door Contact (Pin 4) and should open the door if Pin 3 is unlocked.

I am interested in understanding how to troubleshoot whether this repair requires a new window regulator, just a window adjustment, a switch or a CLC.

[Dave S.]

Thanks. I think I'm just going to have to take the door apart and see what's going on in there. It appears the electrical is working properly, but there is either something binding against the glass or the track. Since I had the new stereo installed and speakers installed in the door I have an annoying rattle coming from the passenger door when the stereo is cranked and I want to dynamat it anyway. Sounds like this will finally get me to take care of that problem at the same time.
I won't work on it until my dynamat arrives, but I'll post up something on what I find.

Dave S.

nono do not take those measures it will be something very simple.
reset normally fixes it, first send them up then send them down but hold for 25 seconds then try.

if not check the fuse i bet its blown.
this normally happens on a dead battery.

[Dave S.]

Thanks, I'll definitely try to reset the windows before ripping the door apart. I can't look at it until this weekend.

[roadracer311]

This is the usual symptom for a failed window regulator. If you search for that term, you'll see some tutorials on what they do when they fail and how to replace them. Try the easy stuff to diagnose it, but 99% chance, you need a new window regulator. People have tried to repair them, but no one has come up with a fix that lasts. I have a failed on in my closet right now. Next time one of mine fails, I'm rebuilding it, using parts from my old failed one.

[mgfranz]

When mine was doing this, it turned out to be the door latch assy itself. They can be found used easily enough. https://www.ebay.com/itm/233659722845.

Not hard to swap out if you know the tricks and have the right size 12 point.

[tonythetiger]

if it is dropping at all, or not enough, all indications are the window regulator. Don't bother with a cable tensioner, replace it. 100 dollar part and less than an hour of your time. I have had great experience with the URO, installed 5 or 6 of them over the years and all still working perfectly. Others have derided them
Quick tips:
set the screws on new regualtor to match old as this gets you really close if not perfect on adjustments AND spread the clamps that grab the window in advance. You dont remove the bolt, just loosen it and make sure the rubber glove is seperated. thank me later.
:+)

[mgfranz]

Originally Posted by tonythetiger

if it is dropping at all, or not enough, all indications are the window regulator. Don't bother with a cable tensioner, replace it. 100 dollar part and less than an hour of your time. I have had great experience with the URO, installed 5 or 6 of them over the years and all still working perfectly. Others have derided them
Quick tips:
set the screws on new regualtor to match old as this gets you really close if not perfect on adjustments AND spread the clamps that grab the window in advance. You dont remove the bolt, just loosen it and make sure the rubber glove is separated. thank me later.
:+)

Good point! If the window moves even a minute amount from either the door handle or the interior handle, look at regulator issues. If you have no movement from the door handle, but the interior handle moves the window, you have a bad door handle. If you have movement from the interior handle but nothing from the door, the interior handle switch is bad. If you have zero movement from either the door or the interior, you have a bad door latch.
Rebuilding them is not always a wise option, our latches were used on almost every 986 and 911 from 1998-2004, go grab a used one.
And forget the option of using a VW or Audi latch, the brains do not talk well to our central alarm unit. Like I said, when mine went bad, latch from a 911 solved my issue. My symptoms were no drop at all from either door or interior.

[Tweetdriver63]

Sorry if I'm rehashing.

I've read through this thread at least twice.

When my driver's door is closed and the window up (obviously), a little pull on either the inside or the outside handle and I can hear something move/try to move. Release the handle and I can hear it reverse. I think I can even feel something moving. However, there is zero movement of the window glass.

I just want to confirm this is a problem with the door latch? I don't think it's any of the microswitches, since I can hear/feel it trying to do as it should when pulling or releasing both handles.

As I'm sure most of you know, when opening the door, it isn't really a problem if the glass doesn't drop at all. It's only when closing it that it's a issue. I've been living with it by just remembering to push down slightly on the glass as I get in/out of the car so that it will be down a little when I close the door. The window always goes back up once the door is closed.

[elav]

Originally Posted by mgfranz

When mine was doing this, it turned out to be the door latch assy itself. They can be found used easily enough. https://www.ebay.com/itm/233659722845.

Not hard to swap out if you know the tricks and have the right size 12 point.

What is the right size 12-point to remove the bolts that hold the latch in the door?

[mgfranz]

Originally Posted by elav

What is the right size 12-point to remove the bolts that hold the latch in the door?

M8

Once you have removed it once, you will be able to do it in about 20 min.

[PLP]

I am not sure if it is better to start a new thread or steal one...
But then - it is very same topic, although slightly different issue.

I went through the learning process and the windows switches operate correctly. I suppose.
One short tap - it goes automatically up or down. Push and hold - will roll until released. Is that right?

Now, the drop.
Drivers side.
When I grab the handle from outside - the window drops enough to clear the roof. However, I must HOLD the handle in pulled up position when opening the door and do it slowly for the window to stay lowered. If I do it too quickly - it will go up.
When closing it (and I managed to open it slowly and the windows is dropped), the window will close.
If I do it too quickly, it will drop only to go up right away. When closing in this situation, I must pull the handle (window drops) and while keeping it pulled, close the door.
From inside - surprisingly it works. I pulled the latch and it glass drops, close from outside - will go up.

Passenger side - does not work at all.

But both sides will drop when opening or closing the roof.

So, what am I looking at here?

[elav]

@PLP - I'm going through the same process. My guess is that the door latch is shot on your driver's door. The inner door handle and outer door handle use cables to unlatch the door latch and it sounds like one may be pulling it slightly differently than the other but my guess is the door latch cam is worn enough that the micro switch that rides on that cam isn't telling the car that the door is open. I had similar issues (my window won't stay down) and just replaced the latch and now it is working perfectly. If you know how to disconnect the door latch from the outside handle (look for a thread I started recently for this info) you can pull the door latch out in about 20 minutes and take a look if your cam is shot or perhaps the rubber boot on the micro switch is torn and keeping it from working consistently. Might be worth the effort to see if you can fix it as it is a $600 part (although you can get OEM for $250, but I think you are better off buying the original brand in this case).

[Stl-986]

switches - that is normal
handle - micro switches are bad/disconnected. common issue

[PLP]

I am a bit confused as to what parts are there and what needs to be replaced...
I found that:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/supertech/catalog.cgi?action=frameset&return-url=/cgi-bin/supertech/catalog.cgi%3Faction%3Dframeback%26page%3D583&catalog-url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.pelicanparts.com%2Fcatalog%2 FSuperCat%2F1051%2FPOR_1051_INTPNL_pg2.htm%23item7

and that:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99661312300.htm?pn=996-613-123-00-OEM&SVSVSI=1051&DID=54029

so which one is it?
How many are there?

I am waiting for the book to arrive, so it will help a lot. For now I am lost.

[Stl-986]

there are 2 micros switches. One on side door handle and one for outside handle. Both are known to fail.