What is the right size 12-point to remove the bolts that hold the latch in the door?

M8

Once you have removed it once, you will be able to do it in about 20 min.

I am not sure if it is better to start a new thread or steal one... :D
But then - it is very same topic, although slightly different issue.

I went through the learning process and the windows switches operate correctly. I suppose.
One short tap - it goes automatically up or down. Push and hold - will roll until released. Is that right?

Now, the drop.
Drivers side.
When I grab the handle from outside - the window drops enough to clear the roof. However, I must HOLD the handle in pulled up position when opening the door and do it slowly for the window to stay lowered. If I do it too quickly - it will go up.
When closing it (and I managed to open it slowly and the windows is dropped), the window will close.
If I do it too quickly, it will drop only to go up right away. When closing in this situation, I must pull the handle (window drops) and while keeping it pulled, close the door.
From inside - surprisingly it works. I pulled the latch and it glass drops, close from outside - will go up.

Passenger side - does not work at all.

But both sides will drop when opening or closing the roof.

So, what am I looking at here?

switches - that is normal
handle - micro switches are bad/disconnected. common issue

@PLP - I'm going through the same process. My guess is that the door latch is shot on your driver's door. The inner door handle and outer door handle use cables to unlatch the door latch and it sounds like one may be pulling it slightly differently than the other but my guess is the door latch cam is worn enough that the micro switch that rides on that cam isn't telling the car that the door is open. I had similar issues (my window won't stay down) and just replaced the latch and now it is working perfectly. If you know how to disconnect the door latch from the outside handle (look for a thread I started recently for this info) you can pull the door latch out in about 20 minutes and take a look if your cam is shot or perhaps the rubber boot on the micro switch is torn and keeping it from working consistently. Might be worth the effort to see if you can fix it as it is a $600 part (although you can get OEM for $250, but I think you are better off buying the original brand in this case).

I am a bit confused as to what parts are there and what needs to be replaced...
I found that:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/supertech/catalog.cgi?action=frameset&return-url=/cgi-bin/supertech/catalog.cgi%3Faction%3Dframeback%26page%3D583&cata log-url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.pelicanparts.com%2Fcatalog%2 FSuperCat%2F1051%2FPOR_1051_INTPNL_pg2.htm%23item7

and that:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99661312300.htm?pn=996-613-123-00-OEM&SVSVSI=1051&DID=54029

so which one is it?
How many are there?

I am waiting for the book to arrive, so it will help a lot. For now I am lost.

there are 2 micros switches. One on side door handle and one for outside handle. Both are known to fail.

There are 3 micro switches in each door. I don't know the year of your Boxster, but before ordering the door latch I would call Pelican Parts, give them your VIN and confirm which part is correct for your car. Here is an overview...

- 996-613-125-00-M100 - this is the micro switch for the left outside door handle
- 996-613-126-00-M100 - this is the micro switch for the right outside door handle
- 996-613-123-00-OEM - this is the micro switch for either the right or left inside door handles
- 3B1-837-016-P-M100 - here is an example of door lock mechanism. Determine if you need these (as they are expensive) and then call Pelican Parts with your VIN to figure out which is right for your car. This has a micro switch in it and is the mechanism in your door that contains the actual latch that engages when you close the door.

I've only fixed one door so far but it is my understanding that if you open the outside door latch and the window moves down, the micro switch for the outside door handle is working. If you open the door with the inside door handle and the window moves down, the micro switch in the inside door handle is working. If your window doesn't stay down while the door is open, your door lock mechanism micro switch and/or cam in this mechanism is bad and needs to be replaced. I hope this helps and please confirm any part numbers before ordering as I believe the door lock mechanism can change based on type of security system your car has, etc.

Well, you only listed 2 micro switches. The door mechanism isn't considered a microswitch, even if there is one inside it.

Is there any adjustment to them?
Today the passenger door all of sudden worked. Just once... so either the microswitches operate intermittently or something does not pull them far enough.

No. When they go bad they just need to be replaced unfortunately. It isn't something that has to be done though, you can just live with it. Had one that had the driver side go bad. I just got used to rolling the window down some before getting out and using the key to close it when I got out. Was really only an issue when it was storming out.

@PLP - how are you making out? I fixed the passenger door today. Replaced the 2 micro switches in the door handles and the door latch that has the 3rd micro switch. The door latch mechanism that was in there had a short and actually blew a fuse as I was removing it. Car is now 100%. I actually also had a issue with the spoiler. I’ve seen a lot of videos of people replacing the entire unit but not restoring. After 20+ years the grease isn’t any more. I disassembled that, re- greased it and that is now working perfectly too.

Great news:cheers:
Where did you get the microswitces? I need to tackle the same issue on the passenger side door as well.

I bought the door latch from our host but got the inside and outside door handle micro switches from a wrecked car at a pick and pull.

Perfect, thanks :cheers:

I should say that our host sells the micro switches too. Look at the beginning of this tread for the links (but make sure the door latch is compatible with your car).

Actually that might be what I face here.
On random occasions a fuse gets blown. No apparent reason.

I have not done anything yet. These are secondary issues. First are tires (actually wheels, going back to OEM, as the 19s rub on rear fenders), tail lights, and suspension inspection.

I will start working on them next week or so.
Funny thing is that I get them to work correctly from time to time... so I hope for a cheap resolution.

Sorry if I'm rehashing.

I've read through this thread at least twice.

When my driver's door is closed and the window up (obviously), a little pull on either the inside or the outside handle and I can hear something move/try to move. Release the handle and I can hear it reverse. I think I can even feel something moving. However, there is zero movement of the window glass.

I just want to confirm this is a problem with the door latch? I don't think it's any of the microswitches, since I can hear/feel it trying to do as it should when pulling or releasing both handles.

As I'm sure most of you know, when opening the door, it isn't really a problem if the glass doesn't drop at all. It's only when closing it that it's a issue. I've been living with it by just remembering to push down slightly on the glass as I get in/out of the car so that it will be down a little when I close the door. The window always goes back up once the door is closed.

What's the diagnosis if the (driver's side) window doesn't move when you pull either the outside or inside handle, but you can hear something working like it's trying to, and the auto up/down works perfectly when you operate the convertible top.

When I give a short pull (maybe 1/2 inch) on either the inside or outside handle, I can hear -- maybe even feel -- something move, and then hear/feel it move back when I let the handle back in. However, the window glass doesn't move at all.

As it is right now, I just always have to push down slightly on the top of the window before I close the door.

This is one of the more frustrating problems on the Boxster. I had a similar problem recently... the window moved, but not enough. I fixed it by adjusting the regulator. It seems the cables stretch to the point where the window won't drop. Some regulators have and adjuster (like a bicycle cable). Even with the adjuster fully extended my window was not moving enough, so I added a spacer to take up more slack and the window now drops enough to clear the top. I installed a cheap regulator I bought on eBay and it is still working 3 years later.
Regulators that don't have adjusters can be tightened up by using zip-ties as spacers... there is a thread somewhere on this. I used a short length of fuel hose held in place by a zip-tie.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1645762837.jpg


This is an earlier thread on another problem that I had with the window... there is some interesting information in it.
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/78235-door-window-not-dropping-properly-%96-troubleshooting-check-list.html