Spring start-up after winter storage???
 

Getting ready to bring my Boxster out of winter storage as we have been blessed with higher temps in the Toronto region recently (in the 50's!!!). Are there any special procedures to do before start-up? Battery was trickle charged all winter, tires inflated to 52lbs and fuel stab. was added. Thanks for any and all input!!!
Can't wait to get driving!! Anyone else in southern Ontario doing the same?

Was car left in gear? Parking Brake on? These may have siezed over the winter (it's best to leave the car in neutral and block the wheels). The motor too - rings stuck to the cylinder walls.

Best thing is to put it in gear (5th is best) and push it about 10 feet - if you don't have that much space, put the car in neutral and push it back (NEUTRAL - do NOT counter-rotate the engine), place it back in 5th and push some more until a total of 10 feet.

This will loosen any stuck parts without destroying them. The starter motor is very high torque and if you try it with the starter and something did sieze, you're gonna cause some damage.

Other than that, try to drive it a bit and refill the tank at 3/4 and 1/2 so that you continually dilute the stale fuel until it's all gone.

Cheers!

Thanks for the advice Lil Bastard (how'd you get that one???). It was kept in gear, with no emergency brake on. Question..."place in 5th gear and move the car forward 10 feet"...with the clutch in???

Lb? Well that was the name of James Dean's ill-fated 550 Spyder - had it written across the boot as the one in my avatar which is at the James Dean Museum in Fairmont, IN - now closed as I understand it.

Yes... you're trying to rotate the drivetrain to be sure that everything is loose. 5th gear because it's the gear that gives you the best advantage... you'd have to be the Hulk to move it in 1st.

Cheers!

Stale fuel.......how long does petrol (gas, sorry guys :D ) take to go stale?

And if it did, i'm presuming it would just be absorbing moisture from the air in the tank.....what would the symptoms be?

I'm just wondering about my own, it's been laid up in the cold months and I haven't re-fuelled, and it's idling badly....

Euro gas (petrol in Brit speak) is more highly refined than US gas. Unfortunately that also means it goes off sooner - 30-35 days vs 35-60. This can be extended by using a fuel stabilizer to 3-4 months.

Moisture absoption is an issue, but the real problem is that gasoline is a very chemically unstable compound. It changes over time. Gums and varnishes (parafins) come out of solution plus the octane rating drops. When this happens, the fuel is less able to withstand compression and combusts too soon causing knock, ping and general poor starting/running.

Fortunately, is doesn't take more than a couple gallons of fresh fuel to somewhat 'revive' the old fuel making it at least capable of running the car and being burned.

Whether you use stabilizer or not, it's a good idea to keep diluting older gas by short-filling it 3 or 4 times before emptying the tank.

Cheers!

Thanks for the name explanation LB!!! Interesting! I will give the 5th gear move and refill the tank a few times...makes a lot of sense. This is my first time around at storing and waking as I just purchased in Sept. '09. I really like to stay aware of the technical side though!!!

Something else that is very important is to prime the engine. It's been sitting for months. Where do you think the oil is right now? On the rings? Nope. It's all in the sump.

So what you do is disconnect the coil(s) and crank it until you get a normal oil pressure reading. Unfortunately, in this car there isn't an oil pressure gauge. So you'll just have to crank it for a bit. Anything is better than just firing it up. In my Firehawk, it generally takes about 10-15 seconds of cranking to get a normal oil pressure. Since you don't have a gauge, and this motor is not a GM v-8, I'd crank it for 20-30 seconds to be sure. Then, reconnect the coil(s) and fire her up.

By disconnecting the coil, you will be preventing combustion. This will prevent putting a lot of pressure against the piston while there is no oil in the engine.

Of course, the best way to prime the engine is with a primer. On GM V-8s, you can remove the distributor (which is driven by a gear off the oil pump) and use a special tool on a drill which will spin the oil pump. I don't know if there is a way to do that on the Boxster.

Mike,

What you suggest would be an excellent procedure if you could power the oil pump externally via a power drill to charge the oil galleries and pressurize the system to float the internals such as the GM small block you describe, I've had some Brit cars where you could do this as well. And then there is an electric pre-luber system which does the same thing using an electric powered pump.

But for the Boxster it's not such a good idea.

Think about it... what you're describing is turning the motor dry on the battery/starter motor in order to avoid turning the motor dry via combustion. While that may sound same-same, it really isn't.

The starter motor operates at a set RPM, much lower than idle and much lower than necessary for the oil pump to achieve maximum pressure/flow. Cranking it on the starter means you have to crank it dry longer than if you had the engine running to charge and pressurize the system, if you even achieve that at all on the starter.

Not only that, but on the Boxster there isn't a single coil... there are 6 individual coilpaks, inaccessible except from underneath, making what you describe a very cumbersome procedure.

Nope, for the Boxster, I'd say once you know everything is loose and not binding by manually rotating the drivetrain, start the car right up.

Cheers!

I can see where you're coming from Mike_yi, but I thought the moment the engine is turning, whilst not at ideal pressure, it will still be pumping oil to the essential areas....... Otherwise, a car like the TVR I used to have would have done some serious damage, the pressure didn't go up to optimum for about five minutes?

Lil Bast, thanks for the fuel info, and sorry for micro-stealing some of this thread Boxsternut :cheers:

I have a related question, after letting my 06 sit for a month or so, the oil level showed high when I went to start it for the first time. After that first start, the level read fine. I've let the car sit for a week or two, and this didn't happen. Oil drain-back, moisture, thoughts?
Thanks,
Steve

Wow.....I'm glad my 3.5L Honda V6 isn't that fussy! I'm going to stick with the moving 10 feet in 5th and refueling a few times to dilute the tank. Anything special with the tires besides bringing back down to normal inflation? Thanks again!

Wow that sounds like a lot of work. I really don't think all that is necessary, at least not for Toronto. I "stored" my car from early December to early March. That's 3 months. I drove the car twice in that time, thus every 4 weeks, for 20 km or so just to keep it loose, overinflated tires a bit (40 psi), and kept the tank full to prevent condensation. Other than that, when I pulled it out of "storage" last week, I just adjusted tire pressure, started it (it always fires up immediately, no battery charging needed), and drove.

If you are leaving the car untouched for 6 months or more, maybe more precautions are required. But if it is stored indoors and driven every 4 weeks or so for 3 months, I don't think there is cause for more.

Carguy,
Are you out now for the season? I thought about it last weekend with the nice weather and all, but will be in the Caribbean next week (March Break). Can't wait to get it back on the road. We're up in Caledon, and even though the snow is mostly gone, the roads have all heaved and it wouldn't make a smooth ride yet. How is it by you in T.O.? My brother-in-law lives in the Yonge/York Mills area (Hogs Hollow) and hasn't brought his 911 out yet either.

Yes, I am out for the season as of last Thursday, been driving it every day given the great weather, though now looks like rain for next few days. Already gotten new front engine put in, as well as put new tires on. Mild winter was easy on the roads, and there what little snow there was in a few piles from that one "storm" we had is long gone. From now on if it's not raining (and sometimes even if it is) the P car rides!

Enjoy your vacation..

Woke the Car up yesterday the same way I always do, Take, the cover off, unplug the battery tender, turn the key on and wait to prime the fuel system and start it up. It always starts first time. As far as all the oiling stuff, what difference is there in a nap startup and an oil change startup. There is no oil in the galleys and a lot of people don't even fill the oil filter( I do). I don't know if 3 or 4 months is long enough to remove all oil film from the engine. If I am doing bad things to my car I would like to know. Maybe Jake Raby would take time to chime in on this. Besides all of this, cleaned the wheels, washed her and took the wife for about a 100 miles round trip run for wings. Wing night and all. Spring is here. Ed

Of course, those simply starting the car up are free to do what they wish, and for most, there won't be any negative repercussions.

But, I still recommend (and I do) making sure the drivetrain isn't siezed because it's not a difficult procedure and good insurance. Think about it, most headgasket failures are progressive, with many allowing coolant into a cylinder producing white smoke/steam. If you have such a small leak, over the months-long storage, the coolant seeps into a cylinder causing the rings to bind to the cylinder wall. A high-torque startup on the starter motor can tear the rings turning a headgasket replacement into a rebuild. Imho, turning the engine as I describe is a good way to avoid this because you never really know if any siezure has taken place until it's too late to do anything about it.

But, I relayed this specifically in response to the author's queery: " Are there any special procedures to do before start-up? "

Cheers!

Carguy...glad to see you're enjoying the ride again. Just back from the cruise, Florida was cool this year, and getting ready to 'wake-up'. Looks like snow possible again this weekend, so plan to wait until first weekend in April...can't wait!!! Still agree with Lil Bastard for the start-up procedure...will try and report back soon.

But ignorance was so convenient!!!!!!! You guys gave me lotsa new stuff to worry about in oder to get my car back on the road. Thanks a bunch! Maybe I'll just leave it in mothballs indefinitely.


Just joking......thanks for the wisdom.

I guess I should consider myself lucky since the weather where I live allows me to drive all year long.

When you store your cars during cold weather do everyone just let it sit that long without starting it up periodically?

I have a garage queen which I rarely drive. Maybe 1k a year if I even reach that. I do make it a point to start it up at least once a week just to keep it lubricted and have a battery tender hooked up.

Just got back from my first drive since last November. What a great day here in Toronto...12Celsius (about 50F) and sunny! Unplugged the trickle charger, readjusted the tire pressure, rolled the car forward in fifth gear for 10 feet, fired her up with no problems and had a great drive for about 45 minutes. Took it easy for awhile, then had a little fun!!! What a great feeling again. Drove past 5 OPP (Provincial Police) in the first half hour...lucky on all of them! Thanks for all the tips on storage and restarting...this is a great forum. Happy driving boys!!!!!!!

Oh yea, it's time. I have it stored in a 50 degree garage since Nov 30th. Start it up once a week and drive it around the block every two. Always put it back in a little different place. So, insurance starts on Thursday, have done everything i want to it (well at least for this week) and out it comes then. Hope it is ok, but once i'm out i won't care. Probably like the rest of you cold weather people, i can't wait!

A week ago took off the car cover, opened the trunk (did not lock it), connected the battery, turned the key and waited 2 minutes before firing it up. Reset the tire pressure and drove to the closest Shell station (easy drive) and gassed up. I drove it easy for at least 200 KM before I drove it a bit harder. I still have to keep her revs below 5,500 RPM for the next 500 KMs as the motor has been rebuilt. The driving is sure fun!!!

Plated mine up this last weekend. I stored it tank full, and now I've topped off from a half tank twice so my gas is fresh enough. Next is another tank with Lubro-Moly, and then a fresh belly-full of Mobil1, new fuel filter, and a fresh set of plugs and tubes (they're seeping). Did the air filters and belt before I rolled it out for the first time. (So that's what the engine looks like!)

Hey Randall - I put your seat covers on, too. Got small hands and skinny arms so I didn't have to take the seats out. Exactly what I was looking for - thanks again!

Sure gotta love an early spring. I wasn't expecting to drive for another month or two yet.

Mark

Glad to hear others are enjoying that first spring (early!) drive!!! Tomorrow in the GTA it's going upto 20C+, then 25C the next...can you say "top down???" Enjoy.

FYI: Had a very long conversation with Porsche mechanic and he seemed to know his stuff. He said, the worst thing you can do to a Porsche is let it sit. It loves to be driven, not occasionally. :eek:

Generally true, but not for a car in the Snow Belt! Some people have no option but to store it or watch the road salt eat it away bit-by-bit.

Storing a car isn't difficult or bad for it if stored properly. These are procedures many quality Museums use to keep a car healthy through years of non-use.

I've yet to hear of anyone having issues if the car was properly stored, but this forum is pelted annually by those who discount the value or are unwilling to take the proper steps.

Cheers!

Yep, the salt and sand used around here is one good reason not to winter-drive it. Another is that I don't have a block heater installed (do these motors even have frost plugs?) and I just don't see it starting at -35C without one and, if it does start, that's really, really hard on the engine. My third reason is that I live in the bad driver capital of the world and I just know that some idiot would slam into me because she misjudged the stopping distance on ice.

Thanks for the Lubro-Moly Jectron tip, Lil B. Was a ******************** to find the stuff, though. I have a 300 ml can. Should I add that to a full tank, half tank... what's the ideal concentration?

Mark

Started up the three cars I store every winter today. Haven't sat in the Boxster since October. Started right up, no issues. Life is good.

Dave S.

wonder if you over service the oil to let sit then drain same amt when ready to start? Kind of a pain but might keep engine well lubricated??

I tried pushing the car forward in 5th last spring and just about had a hernia. Couldn't get it to move. Yes, the brake was off. Need more Wheaties I guess.

Don't overthink this thing.

Taking 1999 Boxter out of storage
 

I have been reading the forum, good information regarding taking my Boxter out of storage for the first time, (just bought it last fall). My problem is that mine is a tip tronic, not a standard 6 speed.... so i cannot put it in fifth gear as you can, and roll it to make sure it is not froze up. Any suggestions guys? I don't want to screw this up being my first spring start up.

would appreciate your input.

Mc Duff

My 99 Boxter is a tiptronic not a standard 6 speed, any suggestions on best practice for spring start up?

A few months in storage? Personally, I'd turn the key and start it.

+1. Just turn the key!

Have a 02 tip ... make sure the tire pressure is correct, oil level is good and battery is charged or has a fair charge. Start it up (which may take a few seconds) and let it idle for a bit. Need to ensure the oil has flowed for a bit and let it get to operating temp to burn off the water in the crank. Take it easy for a bit as you drive to the gas station to fill up on fresh gas. Tap the brakes a few times to ensure any rust has been removed and they will stop the car. Once it has fresh gas, go for a nice cruise foa a bit to awaken the car. Try not to drive it hard for a hour or so.

What I usually do is connect a battery charger and run it till the battery is 100% charged ... have a "inteligent" version. I have done this for over 11 years with my earlier 951 and for two years with the Beepster. May pull it out this weekend ...

Mcduff - 99 Boxter
 

Thanks guys, appreciate the input. I had it serviced just before storage, even changed tranny fluid. Had trickle charger on it all winter, and did the steel wool in the tail pipe, pumped tires, even put a pan with charcoal in passenger area to absorb moisture! All ideas that came from this web site.

I will do as you suggest, turn the key and let it warm up. I just saw the comments regarding the oil being totally trained to the lower pan, and dry pistons, and did not want to launch the motor before I really got to drive it. Sounds like maybe overkill.

It's a 99 as I said, with 30,00 miles, gray on gray, and I am excited and get going. We live in cold weather also (Michigan), so we get about 5 months use, and it is about to start.

Thanks again for your input!

McDuff

Thank GOD for some sanity!

This thread is unravelling into nonsense. What's next? "using a 10cc syringe place 8cc's of synthetic into each cylinder ... then put a heating pad on the motor and light some incense .."

Get in, turn the key and you're good to go.

Better safe than sorry, you may not get a second chance.