60,000 mile service

[Petermcd]

I am due for mine. Anything I should know? Anything special I should ask to be checked. Should I get the dealer to send me the list of what they do and have my local Porsche mechanic do it? Thanks for the help. Oh, mine is a 2003 base boxter.

[dallison]

belt, plugs, air/cabin filters, oil, check brakes, coolant and brake fluid flush. Check tires for wear. Take a wrench to the suspension to make sure all is tight.
Check cv boots for cracks/tears. possible aos, a couple other things i am forgetting.

[dallison]

oh yeah, remove front bumper to remove all the **************** in the radiators.

[ppbon]

Originally Posted by Petermcd

I am due for mine. Anything I should know? Anything special I should ask to be checked. Should I get the dealer to send me the list of what they do and have my local Porsche mechanic do it? Thanks for the help. Oh, mine is a 2003 base boxter.

For Model Year 2003:
Major Maintenance every 30,000 miles (30K, 60K, 90K, 120K...)

• Diagnosis system: Read out fault memory
• Polyrib belt: Check condition
• Change the engine oil and oil filter
• Replace the spark plugs
• Vehicle underside and engine compartment: Visual inspection for leaks (oils and fluids) and abrasion (lines and hoses)
• Underbody panels: visual inspection for completeness, installation and damage
• Coolant hoses: Check condition;
• Radiators and air inlets at front: Visual inspection for external contamination and blockage;
• Coolant: Check the level and antifreeze protection
• Air cleaner: Replace the filter element
• Particle filter: Replace the filter element
• Fuel system: Visual inspection for damage, routing and secure fit of line connections
• Power steering: Check the fluid level and bellows
• Parking brake: Checking the free play of the parking brake lever
• Brake system: Visual inspection of the brake pads and brake discs for wear
• Brake hoses and lines: Visual inspection for damage, routing and corrosion. Checking the brake fluid level
• Clutch: Check the play and pedal end position
• Steering gear: Visually inspect the bellows for damage
• Tie rod joints: Check the play and dust bellows
• Axle joints: Check play, visual inspection of dust bellows for damage, check screw connections of running gear adjustment facility, front and rear, for secure fit
• Drive shafts: Perform a visual inspection of the boots for leaks and damage
• Exhaust system: Visual inspection for leaks and damage, check suspension
• Tires and spare wheel (collapsible wheel): Check the condition and the tire pressure
• Check the door locks, lid locks and safety hooks of the front lid to ensure that they are secure and functioning properly:
• Check lid lock, front and rear; Check safety hook, front lid; Function test, check door lock; Check door and lid tightening torques
• Seat belts: Check function and condition
• Vehicle lighting: Check function; All headlights: Check adjustment; Horn: Check operation.
• Windscreen wiper/washer system, headlight washer: Check fluid level and nozzle settings, pay attention to antifreeze protection in the winter months.
• Electrical equipment as well as warning and indicator lights: Check operation.

Test drive:
Remote control, front seats, foot and parking brakes (also actuation travel), engine, clutch, steering, transmission, ParkAssist, automatic speed control, TC/PSM switch, heating, air-conditioning system and instruments: Check operation.
Oils, fluids: Visual inspection for leaks

Important Notes:
The term "checking" includes all necessary subsequent work such as adjusting, readjusting, correcting and topping up, but does not include repairing, replacing and reconditioning parts or assemblies.
· The maintenance item Replace the spark plugs depends on the model year. Please see Additional Maintenance
· The test item Checking inner unlocking of luggage compartment (Trunk Entrapment) has been added to the countries specification CO2 (for USA) and C36 (for Canada) from model year 2003.
· The maintenance item Throttle actuation: Check smooth operation, check full throttle position with the Tester is omitted as of model year 2002.

Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

[Adam]

Dallison, they wouldn't flush the coolant unless they are specifically asked to because Porsche considers the coolant to be good for the life of the car. To the OP, I would either take it to an indy shop or buy a Bently manual and DIY. The dealership royally screws you on any kind of maintence.

[dallison]

Originally Posted by Adam

Dallison, they wouldn't flush the coolant unless they are specifically asked to because Porsche considers the coolant to be good for the life of the car. To the OP, I would either take it to an indy shop or buy a Bently manual and DIY. The dealership royally screws you on any kind of maintence.

i understand that they claim that it's lifetime fluid, But the acidity will always change and should be considered. The coolant in my wife's 4runner was never changed and at 110k the trans fluid and the coolant decided to make a strawberry milkshake. I replaced the radiator and ran about 20 qts of trans fluid thru the trans to get it acceptable to take to the dealer.

so after dealing with that, i flush each of the vehicles at regular intervals.

[Adam]

Originally Posted by dallison

i understand that they claim that it's lifetime fluid, But the acidity will always change and should be considered. The coolant in my wife's 4runner was never changed and at 110k the trans fluid and the coolant decided to make a strawberry milkshake. I replaced the radiator and ran about 20 qts of trans fluid thru the trans to get it acceptable to take to the dealer.

so after dealing with that, i flush each of the vehicles at regular intervals.

Totally agree. I'm not saying don't ever flush the coolant or at least keep on eye on the color and level. I'm just saying the P-car dealer will only do what's on the list Pedro posted up (if your're lucky) and they don't consider coolant flush necessary. I for one would never take my car to a P-car dealership for maintence anyway, I'm just saying.

[Perfectlap]

coolant for the life of the car? no kidding... I'm scheduled to do mine this week.
Seems weird that you wouldn't change the coolant on a ten year old car.
Should I skip it? I'm also flushing the brakes which feel a little squishy/noisy, front rotors and pads not far off.

recent maintenanace
1-air filter (I do this yearly)
2-oil (switched to Castrol Syntec 5-40 a year ago from M1)
3-02 sensors (all four, changed one two summers ago but kept getting CEL)
4-fuel filter
5-new Bosch wipers (pretty cool design)
6-Serpentine belt
7-cabin filter
8-CRC'd the MAF
9-Did spark plugs at 50K miles.

coming:
clutch, ims upgrade, rms, shocks and springs... rob bank.

[dallison]

Originally Posted by Adam

Totally agree. I'm not saying don't ever flush the coolant or at least keep on eye on the color and level. I'm just saying the P-car dealer will only do what's on the list Pedro posted up (if your're lucky) and they don't consider coolant flush necessary. I for one would never take my car to a P-car dealership for maintence anyway, I'm just saying.

lol, i wasn't looking for an arguement. i just realized that's how it may have come off.


From my past experience i have incorporated that into my schedule of maintenance.. :dance:

[jhandy]

One thing that was done to mine that is not listed above is to drop the oil pan and clean the sludge from the uptake tubing.

[Steve Tinker]

Thats interesting JH - how much "sludge" was in the pan and tubing?

[jhandy]

I dont know first hand how much was in there. I did not do the work. However I figured it could not hurt.... After seeing this.....

Check this out
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1281659
http://www.cutesphere.com/data/cars/oil/index.php

Any amount is bad..the oil pick up tube and screen is what shoud be cleaned.
Its not a lot of work really. Just more bolts.

[Paul]

If you have ever changed oil and spark plugs on any car, you can do the 60K yourself in an afternoon.

[jhandy]

Also I suppose if you are going to do the belt and the Coolent, You might as well put a new water pump in and low temp thermo.

It would be a shame to be driving with 70K on the clock and the plastic waterpump blow out. Then you need to add 150$ to the repair for the fluids anyway. (not to mention the wasted fluid you just put in).