10-06-2009, 07:40 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Posts: 801
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I have a 2000
anyone know the EXACT part I need (a link would be awesome, not particular about vendor, just price)
I think I'm going to tackle the AOS myself and see if that fixes some of it...
I would like the AOS itself (the revised version if it will work for my car)
and possibly the tubes or other parts I might find myself needing during the install.
2000 non-S, 52k miles, Tiptronic
Thanks!
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10-06-2009, 03:48 PM
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#2
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Track rat
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southern ID
Posts: 3,701
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Gentle suggestion,
Use the TS flow chart and pinpoint the failure first, then fix the problem. Changing the AOS or the MAF might be fun but it will not fix air injection pump issues. Did you check for a blown fuse? Your manual will show location and fused circuits ID. It really could be that simple.
__________________
2009 Cayman 2.9L PDK (with a few tweaks)
PCA-GPX Chief Driving Instructor-Ret.
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10-06-2009, 06:23 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Posts: 801
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opened it up tonight to see if there was oil everywhere and it isn't too bad.. i have oil here:
i'm having it looked at tomorrow and was wondering if it's safe to drive to the mechanic
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10-16-2009, 05:58 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Posts: 801
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ok, so had some diagnostics ran, found out the oil separator was bad and had a vacuum leak... replaced the oil separator and now no more smoke and no more CEL's, BUT I still have a scary hunt for idle on startup...
tonight was the worst... started it (starts fine every time) and it started hunting right away, usually it will "catch" itself after like 5 seconds, this time it went on for a good thirty seconds and I heard some (hate to use the word "knocking"), but it sounded like the cars in the movies that run out of gas... heard it about 3 times (sounded like a "burp" or loud "gurgle" if that makes sense)
it only started doing that if i lightly rev'ed it to get the rpm's up.
mechanic said it might need some time after the AOS replacement to get back to normal.. but I had never heard my car make those noises before and the idle hunt was exactly the same as before the AOS replacement, just no smoke..
ONLY 53k miles!! WTF! i lose faith in Porsche's dependability a little bit more every day... when they're working, they're a blast, when they're not, it's the biggest pain in the ass.. and it seems like way more frequent than on other cars.. what gives??
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10-16-2009, 06:00 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Posts: 801
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EDIT: could this also be caused by the MAF? I was going to attempt a "clean" before I had my mechanic do the AOS.. should I still do it? What is causing this wicked idle hunt?
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10-17-2009, 12:22 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 229
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by stateofidleness
ONLY 53k miles!! WTF! i lose faith in Porsche's dependability a little bit more every day... when they're working, they're a blast, when they're not, it's the biggest pain in the ass.. and it seems like way more frequent than on other cars.. what gives??
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Its time for you to step away from the car and take a couple nice, deep relaxing breaths. You are getting wound up too much about the car.
Yes, it is possible that it is the MAF sensor causing the issue, BUT you would be better off if you first started by cleaning the throttle body, since you had an AOS failure, there is bound to be lots of carbon build up on it.
I am sure that once you clean the throttle body, your hunting will be reduced, if not eliminated. If you want, you can even buy some MAF cleaner, and spray it down, too.
I have a '98 with nearly 89k miles on it, which I bought back in February, and I've put on 10k of those miles myself. I just had to replace the MAF yesterday on my car, because it went bad, and set off the P0102 code, and I checked its functionality with my Durametrics program, and saw that it was out of spec. That cost me $180 to replace, but its the first actual problem the car has had in the 10k miles I've put on the car.
I'm just glad I bought the Durametrics tool back in the summer so that when I needed it, there it was. If you don't have that, you might want to invest in it, if you are mechanically inclined, that is.
BC.
__________________
Its not how fast you go, or how expensive your toys are.
Its all about how big your smile is at the end of the day that truly matters.
'98 Silver Boxster, '08 Ducati 848, '89 Honda Hawk GT, '89 Honda Pacific Coast
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10-17-2009, 03:46 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Posts: 801
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maybe I will try tackling the TB and MAF cleaning tomorrow. I actually bought a can of MAF cleaner when I bought the scanning tool in preparation for the MAF clean so all set in that regard.
just.. the sound it makes at startup is SCARY lol... you know when you have a water bottle and you blow back into the straw to make bubbles, that's kinda what it sounds like, but ONE big bubble.
it did it again this morning, started it, let it run for about 5 seconds until i heard it happen, turned it off immediately, then restarted it immediately and it was smooth??? confused
really hope it isn't internal engine problems or something and something eas(read cheap) to fix
the fact that it runs great (even feels better now that the AOS was replaced) when it is warm means the internals should be fine right?
the startup thing is my only issue and after that "burp" i smell a STRONG gas smell from the tailpipe.. I had read that maybe its the air change over valve? I don't want to ruin the cats...
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10-19-2009, 07:18 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Posts: 801
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checked and "cleaned" the MAF yesterday and it looked brand new. car is running top notch. go to start it this morning and minor hunt at idle again. last 3 cold starts were perfect, no hesitation or hunt at all.
half way to work, CEL comes back on (after 3 days of solid driving). Car is running great though.
so I guess my next step is to have the Air Change-over valve and the Electronic Change-over valve replaced.
I had read elsewhere that the Tiptronic models have an extra vacuum valve or something that can also go bad... since it requires taking the alternator out to replace these, I want to replace as much as possible all at once.
what can i expect to pay in labor? and should i replace the seconday air system hoses as well?
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