certainly could be but use a DMM to check the wires leading to it first. If no juice on the front side, then relay could be OK. Reason dealer installed it here is US cars were not prewired for DRL (on early 986s). So your dealer, probably having done a few before, most likely found it easier to run wires there and just use a generic relay from tyco. Same function. Good news is tyco relay is common and you'll most likely be able to find one in an auto parts store. Maybe not the tyco brand, but the wiring std/pin sizes. Anyhow, I digress...
If you find power on the front side, you certainly could just run a jumper wire in the relay's absence to get the DRLs to work (and to test it). Here's another thought (as I don't know how your DRLs are wired thru, w/, or around the std headlight switch. I assume it should bypasses it but.... did you try the lights w/ the DRL relay removed?
Also, not to restate the obvious, but are you 1000% certain all three H7 bulbs (low, high and fog) are good? Many people confuse which bulb is which in the housing b/c it's counterintuitive (low is highest, fog & high are lower).
Keep us posted...
PS - Here's a link to the data sheet for your relay so you'll know where to run a jumper wire from to test...
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