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Old 08-09-2009, 03:19 PM   #1
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Remove oil pan

Is removing the oil pan on a 00 986s easy? I think part of my dipstick fell in the pan. I'm due for a change anyway. What tools will I need?
Thanks.

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Old 08-09-2009, 04:07 PM   #2
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I have never done it but I did read your thread on the broken dipstick. You have my sympathy. if its not one thing its another You may have to change the oil pan seal. I am looking that up right now and will post it here
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Old 08-09-2009, 04:09 PM   #3
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Looks pretty basic, when you do a search you may want to look at "replacing oil pan" or even better leave out the word oil as it gets to many results for oil change. I used "replace sump pan boxster" that is how I found the one below


http://www.bkauto.com/porsche/instructions/R9095.pdf
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Last edited by mptoledo; 08-09-2009 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 08-09-2009, 04:21 PM   #4
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It's pretty easy...

Drain Oil

Remove all 13 12mm bolts from perimeter of the pan

Tap pan with deadblow hammer to free (it's silicone sealed and so need to be tapped)

Clean the pan completely using brake cleaner (esp. sealing surfaces, get off all the old silicone). Before cleaning, remove the rubber baffles so they are not attacked by the cleaner - work it off over the pins holding it.

Clean the mating surface on the block w/ brake cleaner

Using a high temp RTV silicone, apply an even bead around the edge of the pan and let set for 5 min. before reinstalling. There is no pan gasket, so sealing w/ silicone is a critical operation.

Replace all 13 bolts and torque to 10.5 ft.lbs. in a crosshatch pattern

Refill oil.

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Old 08-09-2009, 04:35 PM   #5
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Im curious how muxh of my stick is in the pan. I have 25.5" of metal (not including handle. What is the full size? Also thanks for the info. Looks like it's for a 996 but gives me a basic idea. From that tutorial it seems I need a sealer solution and a new gasket. Don't think I will need to remove that black piece. I'm in a bind at the moment with this car being my only method of transportation. Im curious how likely it is that the piece (given the length) could be sucked up if driven
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Old 08-09-2009, 04:50 PM   #6
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Lil Bastard, are you saying there is only a silicone seal and no gasket for the pan or baffles? By baffles im guessing you mean the black piece in the picture from the link provided. Thats why im confused since the kit from said link shows two gaskets. What silicone product do you recommend or should I just go with porsche part number provided from the link.
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Old 08-09-2009, 05:16 PM   #7
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I recommend loctite 518 for sealing the sump plate.. Silicone or the recommended Porsche sealant has quite a bit of "squeeze" and a ton of it can end up in the oil pick up tube and can create an engine failure.

I go over this in the youtube video that covers the installation of the LN Engineering deep sump kit...
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Old 08-09-2009, 05:17 PM   #8
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You might get lucky and the damn end piece will come out when you drain it. I am not sure how the inside is set up but if you have small fingers you might be able to fish it out. Just let the oil cool before trying that. Its a long shot and you are probably better off taking the pan off like lil bastard suggested, but if its your only transport, its worth a try. You can even reuse the oil if it has just been put in. just use a clean new drain pan. Walmart has the big ones for under 10 bucks.
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Old 08-09-2009, 06:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper5
Lil Bastard, are you saying there is only a silicone seal and no gasket for the pan or baffles? By baffles im guessing you mean the black piece in the picture from the link provided. Thats why im confused since the kit from said link shows two gaskets. What silicone product do you recommend or should I just go with porsche part number provided from the link.

The link you're looking at is for a deep sump kit, and apparently comes with a gasket for the spacer.

OEM there is no gasket. Hi-temp Silicone will work, but the locktite 518 is probably a better solution because of what Jake said about spreading.

It's not likely that you'll find the end piece of the dipstick in the oil pan, it's more likely that you'll have to push it through. You want to be careful with that because you could pierce the oil tube if using a wire or such. Ideally, a piece of fibreglass like the innards of a power antenna would be the thing to use. You could also buy the new dipstick and use that.

By baffles I mean there are two rubber flaps attached to the inside of the sump pan. They close under pressure to keep all the oil from moving to just one side of the engine under lateral 'g's.

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Old 08-09-2009, 06:37 PM   #10
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At walmart picking up some oil. Decided on synthetic mobil one. Thinking of either 10w30 or 10w40. Both are "high mileage" versions for my 2000 boxster s in florida where temps are around 80-90F. Are these good for my car with 110k miles? Leaning more towards 40 but still not sure.
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Old 08-09-2009, 07:10 PM   #11
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I should have prefaced this: This is my opinion after weeks of research.

stay away from 10w30, a lot of experts say stay away from mobil. I was also warned against Highmilage as boxsters don't need them. I used castro syntec 10W40 and I did a lot of research and found nothing bad about castrol syntec 10w40. autozone has it with a free filter for 27.99 a gallon. I have a 2001 "s" 61k miles I got the filter for my mountaineer. Use a napa gold filter for boxster.
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:37 AM   #12
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According to my service manual, both the drain plug and filter have o-rings that need to be replaced every change. Anyone know anything about this?

Also is the napa goldfilter a good substitue for oem filter and does it come with the ring if I do in fact need one?
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Old 08-10-2009, 07:07 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper5
According to my service manual, both the drain plug and filter have o-rings that need to be replaced every change. Anyone know anything about this?

Also is the napa goldfilter a good substitue for oem filter and does it come with the ring if I do in fact need one?
The oil filter canister requires an 'o' ring and the drain plug uses an aluminum crush washer. Both s/b replaced when doing an oil change.

I believe that NAPA's filter cartridge comes w/ an 'O' ring, but not certain. Be sure this is the cartridge type filter and not the spin-on some people have now converted to, but you see referred to here.

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Old 08-10-2009, 10:43 AM   #14
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Yep the napa comes with an "O" ring. Napa had it there by 8am the next morning. I have an extra K&N filter laying around after I was advised to use the Napa gold as it was better contructed, had more surface area and provided superior oil flow. I will try to find the part number but I just went into napa and the looked it up.
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Old 08-10-2009, 11:53 AM   #15
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The NAPA Gold cartridge filter is a 7211............it is better made with ridged plastic end caps that surround the filter media and forms a better seal to the engine (unlike the OEM that has glued on treated paper end caps), has more filter media area and a smaller micron pore size as well. If you go online to www.Fleetfilter.com, you can also get them at a great price as well (Fleetfilter adds a 5 to the number so it becomes 57211)..

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Old 08-10-2009, 02:32 PM   #16
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Today I worked on the car. First I drained the oil. The piece did not come out. Next I removed the pan. Pretty easy. Mine used 10mm bolts. Afterwards I pried it open on that special location with a hammer. Looked inside and piece was NOT there. Tomorrow Im going to try and pick up another dipstick. Maybe it's still in the tube. If pushing through the tube doesn't prove to work, I am just going to forget about it. The only explanation I have now is that maybe it got sucked up however unlikely. I briefly (15 seconds) turned the car for the sole purpose of moving it on the driveway. I highly doubt in those few seconds it got sucked up. Another issue I've run into is that mu fram 74-76 mm oil filler grip doesnt grip the filter strong enough. Never used one before but seems pretty self explanatory and don't know why it doesn't work.

Are k&n filters good? I get one free with purchase of 5qts castrol syntec at autozone

Last edited by Viper5; 08-10-2009 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 08-10-2009, 02:37 PM   #17
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I picked up a "b" oil cap cup wrench removal tool from autozone. It was like 6 bucks. be carefull with the porsche screw on filter housing. you should never use anything but the bottom socket "b" cup wrench. It fits on the bottom of your filter and you use a socket or torque to loosen and tighten it.

I have a k&N filter but opted for the napa gold as it was highly recommended.
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Last edited by mptoledo; 08-10-2009 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:42 PM   #18
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It also works on 944 filters....or is it a 944 filter tool works on a Boxster....
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:32 PM   #19
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I used a oil dipstick from a different vehicle to push out the piece if it is in fact in the tube. Nothing came out. If I want to check the tube (the bottom half) is this easy to access, remove from vehicle, and put back on vehicle?

Also, Does anyone know for sure where the end of the tube goes and/or can explain why I cant find it when I stuck a dipstick in the tube to push anything out orwhy it's not in the oil pan after removing that as well. I'm beginning to think that the oil dipstick just goes into a separate compartment way up in the oil reservoir that I can't see or reach.
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:39 AM   #20
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I've been trying to call dealerships to figure out what my risk is and where that piece could be. I finally got a good answer from someone who was actually looking at an engine. He said that the hose in my car has two parts (upper half and lower half). The piece that broke off is in the lower half. The end of the lower half is closed off with tiny holes surrounding it to allow for oil to seep through. That is where the piece must be. I do not run any risk for engine failure so I am certainly happy about that. Thanks for all the input.


Last edited by Viper5; 08-12-2009 at 06:59 AM.
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