stumped, need help - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

yellowboxster01 · 02-17-2009, 08:23 PM

I started a project and originally I was just going to remove my Stebro exhaust to install the stock exhaust again. The reasoning for that is I'm custom making baffles for the exhaust because, I've noticed the drone physically hurts my ears. Anyway, I figured while I was at it, I should go ahead and install these. Maybe that wasn't the best idea. The bolts naturally after being on there since 01' under extreme heat, are breaking off. I have a substance that is specifically for rusted bolts but, even after being soaked in it for several hours they broke off. Not a big deal, I used to restore cars so, a broken bolt isn't anything I don't know how to do.

However, my question is how in the hell do I get to the top bolt? I'm talking about the bolt coming off the header on the topside when you're under the car? I can't get my slimmest wrench in between the bolt and whatever is right behind it. Do I need to modify a wrench to fit in there? Is there something else I need to take off to get to it? My theory is that if I can get the bolt at least broken off, I should be able to just pull on the mid-pipes enough to release them from the header. I've purchased new hardware anyway.

I really am stumped and my only car is down now, good thing for nice weather I'll be able to ride the bike tomorrow.

Please give me some insight. I don't want to take it to the shop for them to all laugh at my misfortune.

jmatta · 02-18-2009, 04:20 AM

If you are talking about the bolt on the transmission mount, you'll need to pull the rear bumper cover to gain access. I know others have worked around it, but I find you can easily work without the cover and it only takes minutes to remove.
Poor quality pic, but you get the idea.

Boxtaboy · 02-18-2009, 06:18 AM

As JMatta says, if you remove the rear bumper, you'll have full access to those bolts. Here's the how to:

To remove the bumper, first remove the bumperettes by removing them with an allen key in the hole below each bumperette. Then, remove all the screws underneath the bottom side of the bumper. I think there are 6 in total along the bottom, plus one on each side located inside each rear wheel well. The final screws holding the bumper cover on are located on top of the bumper cover, but those can only be accessed by removing the rear spoiler.

To do this, just manually raise the rear spoiler, push out the plastic pop rivets located in the black metal portion of the spoiler (you'll be able to retreive and reuse these once you remove the spoiler frame, as they drop into the frame), and pop off the painted top portion of the spoiler. After removing the painted top portion of the spoiler, you will be able to look down the hollow black metal frame of the spoiler and see two hex bolts. Remove these, and you'll be able to pull out the metal frame, which then gives you access to the screws holding the top of the bumper cover. Once this is done, the bumper cover is free, but remember to disconnect the electrical wire that connects to the license plate bulbs before fully pulling out the bumper cover. Reverse steps to put bumper back on.

yellowboxster01 · 02-18-2009, 09:42 AM

Not the exhaust, I've already got the rear bumper off.

I have cat delete pipes I'm trying to install. There's a bolt on the triangular manifold that is on the topside that seems to have a bolt directly behind it. I can't get a wrench on it.

yellowboxster01 · 02-18-2009, 10:55 AM

I think I found the answer to my question. There's 3 mounting spots on the header to midpipes. Two of them have nuts you access from the backside and the top one, the nut is welded to the header and you access the bolt head from the other side. Thus, making whatever is in the way...not in the way.

Now, I'll have to go see if this is the case.

insite · 02-18-2009, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yellowboxster01

I think I found the answer to my question. There's 3 mounting spots on the header to midpipes. Two of them have nuts you access from the backside and the top one, the nut is welded to the header and you access the bolt head from the other side. Thus, making whatever is in the way...not in the way.

Now, I'll have to go see if this is the case.

this absolutely IS the case; you're talking about the header flange on the passenger side. indeed the top nut is captive; remove the bolt from the other side.

yellowboxster01 · 02-18-2009, 07:40 PM

Well, after about 3 hours and 2 broken Snap On tools, I've determined the best solution would be to take it to a muffler shop and have them mess with it. Ahh, this was a great DIY project, I'm glad I started this now instead of just selling the bypass pipes as I was originally going to do.

What do you think it will cost for them to remove 2 bolts and a nut and bolt the bypass pipes on? I'm thinking $100 or so.