CV boots - the easy way

[BoxsterLewis]

So i guess there isnt a difference on how hard it is to turn the steering wheel when the cv boots are torn?

[70Sixter]

Originally Posted by BoxsterLewis

So i guess there isnt a difference on how hard it is to turn the steering wheel when the cv boots are torn?

I don't know why it would. If the CV is going bad you get a groan from the rear when turning and possibly grit from having the boots allow it in. This could be felt especially if the joints are really bad.

[RandallNeighbour]

"CV boots - the easy way"

Actually, the really easy way is to drive the car to Hans and give him the keys and tell him to take care of it.

But since I am now flat broke and still a porsche owner, your information is going to be very handy one day.

Thank you so much for this!

[Kirk]

Originally Posted by BoxsterLewis

So i guess there isnt a difference on how hard it is to turn the steering wheel when the cv boots are torn?

Nope... the CV boots are on the half shafts or axles that drive the car, two on each half shaft (inside and outside CV joints). The Boxster is RWD, so there are only CV joints in the rear. I had no problem with the steering with my torn CV boot, but I did hear more rotational noise in the rear and it was worse when cornering hard.

With the layout of the Boxster I couldn't see how torn CV boots would be related to difficult steering.

Kirk

[BoxsterLewis]

Thanks Kirk, I'm wondering why my Box feels kinda stiff to turn? I got plenty of pressure, etc in tires.

[JackG]

Originally Posted by BoxsterLewis

Thanks Kirk, I'm wondering why my Box feels kinda stiff to turn? I got plenty of pressure, etc in tires.

Slipping belt, power steering pump or rack going bad, low on fluid? Probably should have a mechanic check it out.

[pchase]

Wait, so you guys are saying that I don't need to remove any ball joints to do this job, just maybe the cat?? I can just unbolt the axle shaft from the hub, then unbolt the inner CV from the diff, and then just wiggle the thing out (after unbolting the cat and raising the wheel hub)? That would be awesome, since I was planning on doing this job this weekend, and was worried about trying to find a ball joint separator... Thanks to the OP for bringing this up at such a perfect time!

Pete

[j.fro]

The good news: Don't bother with the ball joints. It's much easier to drop the cats.
The so-so news: you may have to press the studs from the cat flanges, as the bolts may break...pressing them out takes some serious force!
The bad news: you will need a couple of specialty tools. The bolt holding the axle shaft in the hub takes a 32mm socket, and it is torqued to 340 ft-lbs. My impact wrench wouldn't budge it. I used a breaker bar and set up my floor jack to apply enough torque to get it initially moving ( I covered the jack-bar-socket setup with a heavy moving blanket just in case things came apart suddenly).
Then, you will need a hub puller to press the splined end from the hub.

[Kirk]

Originally Posted by j.fro

Then, you will need a hub puller to press the splined end from the hub.

I'm more barbaric. I've found that a hammer with some gentle persuasion works as well.

For the axle nut I used a breaker bar and about a 6' long torque multiplier (cheater bar). That is certainly one tough nut!

I think it looks like this is a case where YMMV (your mileage may vary). I'd take the hub nut off, take the wheel off, disconnect the axle from the transmission, jack/raise the hub up, and then see what kind of angle you can get on the thing and what's in the way. You can then either drop the lower stress plate or the cats depending on what's necessary in your case. But yeah, definitely don't go busting those ball joints, as that's definitely not necessary.

Kirk