The Clay Bar

[Frodo]

I agree with most all of the above. However, it's really not necessary to dry the finish after the washing---in fact, you want the car wet (and, additionally, sprayed with some sort of quick detail as a lubricant) when you clay.

And, as I indicated earlier, hold on tight to the clay when you're using it: It's easy to have it slip out of your grip. Once it hits the ground/pavement it picks up grit that will scratch if you attempt to re-use it. It needs to be pitched.

[roadracer311]

Has anyone tried shining a bright light on their dark colored car after claying it? Mine had hundreds and hundreds of fine scratches afterward.

I used the zaino clay and followed the instructions as carefully as I could. Also read many people's tutorials on the subject prior to claying.

After claying, when the headlight from my motorcycle shines on my Boxster's fenders, I can see the hundreds of tiny scratches I put into the paint with the clay. I can tell that it's from the clay because I followed the "up down" on the fenders and "front back" on the hood, instructions. So instead of the usual spider web pattern, it's nearly parallel lines. I've since buffed it all out with a Porter Cable and some "Zaino-PC"

I turned the clay a lot and used a lot of soapy water to keep the clay lubed up, but it just kept picking up so much stuff (after a good wash with Dawn) that it seemed like I couldn't fold the clay enough to keep it clean. I'll bet I folded 50 times, and I also switched out the clay so much that I used up the full amount of clay that came from Zaino in that kit.

[Frodo]

Dunno. That's interesting. I assume your car was freshly washed prior to claying, Right? I've never seen this on my car following claying (it's seal grey), but I can't say that I've made a point of crankin' up the halogen lights we use for night time projects (automotive and otherwise).

I'll try it next time I clay (which probably won't be until spring).

[Mike_Yi]

Originally Posted by roadracer311

After claying, when the headlight from my motorcycle shines on my Boxster's fenders, I can see the hundreds of tiny scratches I put into the paint with the clay. I can tell that it's from the clay because I followed the "up down" on the fenders and "front back" on the hood, instructions. So instead of the usual spider web pattern, it's nearly parallel lines. I've since buffed it all out with a Porter Cable and some "Zaino-PC"

I turned the clay a lot and used a lot of soapy water to keep the clay lubed up, but it just kept picking up so much stuff (after a good wash with Dawn) that it seemed like I couldn't fold the clay enough to keep it clean. I'll bet I folded 50 times, and I also switched out the clay so much that I used up the full amount of clay that came from Zaino in that kit.

You shouldn't be turning the clay. You should be folding it. Always fold the dirty side in so you are always exposing clean clay to your car. It shouldn't scratch. I've been using Zaino clay bars for quite a while and have never had this problem. If it ever touches the ground, throw it away.

Anybody have any advice on how to not drop them while claying. It generally takes me about 3 bars to do one car because it always sticks, then falls.

[roadracer311]

Sorry, I mis-spoke. I wasn't turning the clay, but folding it.

The car was freshly and thoroughly washed with Dawn and dried with cotton towels before claying. I aced all my chem labs and Physics labs in college, so I've got a lot of practice at following directions.

The only thing I can think of is that it was a 4 year old car that had probably never been clayed and probably needed two packs of clay and even more folding than I gave it.

[dja1980]

http://www.mothers.com/03_how/03_how_02_videos_16.html

[slogans7]

Originally Posted by roadracer311

Sorry, I mis-spoke. I wasn't turning the clay, but folding it.

The car was freshly and thoroughly washed with Dawn and dried with cotton towels before claying. I aced all my chem labs and Physics labs in college, so I've got a lot of practice at following directions.

The only thing I can think of is that it was a 4 year old car that had probably never been clayed and probably needed two packs of clay and even more folding than I gave it.

Are you sure you didn't have scratches before the clay? I've never heard of a clay bar causing scratches unless, as suggested, it's been dropped and contaminated. I use clay frequently and have never had it cause scratches.

You can put a drop cloth undre the section you're claying, so if you drop it, it won't touch the floor.

Claying is just the first step after a wash. You should follow it up with a good swirl remover, then polish, then sealant, then wax, and finally an anti-static solution for a beautiful and protective shine.

[Dave S.]

When I bought my Boxster the paint had a bunch of tree sap on it. I had the car detailed by a guy who does my friends Farrari.
He used some awesome cleaner (Glaze Distributing Co. Tree Sap Remover) to remove the tree sap with no rubbing and then washed and clay bared the car. I had never seen anyone clay bar a car before. He used normal window cleaner (like windex) as the lube for clay barring. Said it's all you need. Then he buffed and polished the car. The car came out unbelievably good - not like it was just really clean, more like it had never been dirty. Excellent shine and really smooth.

Dave S.