Pioneer AVIC-F700BT Problem

[PaulSeales]

Even if they are not being used? Which they are not.

I can get one however.

Paul.

[chitowndad]

Hmmm I didn't know that so if the sub RCA connectors aren't being used it may not make a difference with the ground loop eliminator.

[PaulSeales]

Steve - thank you for trying to assist.

I still haven't had any joy and on top of that the iPod connector doesn't appear to work (I bought the interface cable for it too) either.

I'm close to just taking it out, getting a new housing (do you know anywhere I can get one? I have the black leather option in the car) and going back to stock.

I plugged the Becker back in and it was fine - no whine. It's kinda doing my head in and the guys over here who sold me the lead are about as useful as a chocolate fireguard.

:-(

Paul.

[chitowndad]

So sorry that it isn't working.

One last thing that I would try is to reroute the ground from the Avic to another source instead of the thick brown wire on the harness. If I understand ground loop issues correctly, which I'm not fully sure that I do, the amp and the head unit are sharing the ground and that needs to be seperate. Try running the Avic ground to another source. Simply connect a new wire and run that to anything metal - try a few different places. This lets the amp keep the original ground source which actually ends up connected to the frame behind the drivers headlight (pull back the carpet and you'll see).

-Steve

[PaulSeales]

Steve,

I'll try that. Do you mean to literally cut the earth to the HU and then clip a bit of wire to the cut pin and ground it to the chassis? I can do that no problem.

I have another alternative - I'm thinking of swapping the HU to a Kenwood DNX5220BT of maybe even the Pioneer F900BT (the 900 has 3 pre outs as opposed to the 1 on the 700, so does the Kenwood unit) and then running in a new aftermarket amp in the boot. Would using RCA cables and re running power to a new amp help?

I know this would require rewring plus crossovers put in - I'd rather avoid having to do this if poss though.

Again though, thanks for trying to help me with this. It's really appreciated over here. :-)

Paul.

[chitowndad]

I like the idea of swapping the current head unit with another head unit that has more amp preouts. My avic D3 had several preouts and when I put in the ground loop eliminator on one of them (only needed one) it solved my whining issue so I'm hoping that it will work for you.

Interestingly when I did all of my wiring I had the car off and didn't notice my ground loop issue until I was ready to go for a drive. My whine was noticeable at low volumes when when I cranked it up you couldn't notice. Because I already had a new amp installed I simply put the ground loop eliminator on one of the preamp outputs just before the amp since that was the easiest location.

I was able to move my amp ground wire around to different locations and the problem went away but it eventually came back in a few days. It was all solved when I installed the ground loop eliminator.

Good luck and no problem on helping out.

I also have an issue with the amp giving out a pop sound when I leave the head unit on and pull the key out. I've since figured out that if I turn off the head unit before pulling out the key it doesn't happen. It's because True's instructions have the head unit wired to be always on and my amp is powering down when I pull the key out. If I power it down before turning off the car it's ok. I think if I switched back the power lead wiring to not always be on when the ignition is on I wouldn't have this issue. Some people thought that my amp was too powerful (2000 watts on 4 channels)

Good luck.

-Steve

[PaulSeales]

Steve,

My Dad and I cut the main earth to the head unit tonight and ran a seperate wire from the connector to a new earth. Funny thing happened when we grounded it. The wire sparked! It seems to be getting a back feed from somewhere and I've no idea where.