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Old 09-03-2008, 10:37 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonwind
This got me thinking that I should get mine done sooner rather than later. My car is about to hit 70k and the clutch still seems okay, but you never really know. Well, here goes another big expense but rather do this than blow the clutch at an AX event.
Chris
Why? There's nothing disastrous that can happen.

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Old 09-03-2008, 05:29 PM   #22
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Well let me ask you all this then. When you say 'bite' on the clutch, is it where you first feel the beginning of the resistance of the clutch or when you feel full connection? Assuming it is the former that you are talking about then mine is still low. However, at 70k my mechanic, who is quite good, was surprised it was lasting this long.

Chris
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:46 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonwind
Well let me ask you all this then. When you say 'bite' on the clutch, is it where you first feel the beginning of the resistance of the clutch or when you feel full connection? Assuming it is the former that you are talking about then mine is still low. However, at 70k my mechanic, who is quite good, was surprised it was lasting this long.

Chris
The first resistance, its somewhere between halfway to 3/4 of the way up on the clutch (meaning you have to raise it half to 3/4 of the entire length to get the clutch to start resisting).

I've decided to use the last of it until I feel it's almost completely gone, then I'll get a 90k service done on it as well as some other repairs.
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:52 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lordblood
The biting point is quite high, and before I bought the car an independent mechanic (specializes in Ferrari and Porsche) diagnosed a worn out clutch and small oil leak as the two main things wrong with the car, apparently a 1700 dollar repair altogether.
That's a pretty good price installed. If you're mechanically inclined, you can buy the manual and all of the parts for $500 and DIY it. I ordered the whole clutch kit, a new RMS, the recommended bolts for replacement of the RMS and a new pilot bearing for $400 shipped.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonwind
However, at 70k my mechanic, who is quite good, was surprised it was lasting this long.Chris
We have 102K on our clutch and it is still tight. I'm replacing it soon anyway because I can hear the throwout bearing making a little noise. I don't know if the T/O bearing can be catastrophic in the Boxster, but it can in the 928 so I want to be safe.
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Old 09-03-2008, 06:30 PM   #25
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Mine still grabs tight with no slipping. I did have a 'wrong gear' mishap on Monday when I got annoyed with a Volvo driver who finally turned off so I punched it while dropping it into 2nd and I was going too slow for that gear so I just spun the clutch even though it was fully engaged. A little smell then all was well but it got me thinking about it.

It still shifts strong in all gears and grabs low (start to grab at 1/4 the way up).

Maybe it can wait for a while then.
Chris
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Old 09-03-2008, 07:03 PM   #26
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There is no standard mileage to replace a clutch. Clutch life is heavily dependent on driving style and technique. My dad used to take business trips between Denver and New Mexico once a month, his clutch lasted over 150,000 miles.
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:33 AM   #27
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Be prepared


The current pricing on the stock flywheel is $977. If your flywheel is still good, then they will reuse it and the parts pricing for disc/pp/t-out will be around $500. Asco alum flywheels are in the $800 range. For some reason, we are seeing more and more dual mass failures


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