Motor Oil: 5w-30 Ok Here?

[JCL12]

Last time I got my oil changed, the Pcar tech filled me up with mobil one, 5w-30. This was in upstate NY in November about 3500 miles ago.

I now live in VA and will only drive the car in VA or more south. It is crazy hot now, often 90F+ and I may drive the car in FL a few times this year. Do you see any need to change to 0w-40 because of this or wait until the next change? Next fill, I will get 0w-40...

[Brucelee]

Originally Posted by JCL12

Last time I got my oil changed, the Pcar tech filled me up with mobil one, 5w-30. This was in upstate NY in November about 3500 miles ago.

I now live in VA and will only drive the car in VA or more south. It is crazy hot now, often 90F+ and I may drive the car in FL a few times this year. Do you see any need to change to 0w-40 because of this or wait until the next change? Next fill, I will get 0w-40...

Change it now. Your tech was an moron. 5W-30 M1 is not an approved oil and not the right viscosity.

Do it now.

Good luck.

[JCL12]

Not sure why a Porsche certified tech would put unapproved motor oil in my car or why the porsche manual states synthetic 5w30 is ok. Yikes! Maybe it is time to trade and get that lexus

Anyways, I'll probably just integrate this in with my 45K since I am at 42K... I scanned the work checklist & inspection plan for the 45K. It looks like a pointless gorified inspection. Anything here I can DESCOPE to cut costs and anything I need to add on? I was under the impresion there were more belts that needed changing...



15,000; 45,000; 75,000; 105,000 mile service

Required for the Emmission Control System
Maintenance every 15,000 miles

Change engine oil
Required Maintenance and Lubrication Service

Major maintenance at:
15,000; 45,000; 75,000 and 105,000 miles

Diagnosis system: Read out fault memory
Underside of vehicle and engine compartment: Visual inspection for leaks (oils and fluids) and chafine (wires, lines and hoses)
Underbody paneling: Check that the underbody paneling is securely fastened - replace any damaged and/or missing panels.
Power-assisted steering: Check fluid level
Coolant hoses: Check condition. Radiators and air inlets: Visual inspection for external debris and blockage
Coolant: check level and anitfreeze
Particle filter: Replace filter element
Brake hoses and lines: Visual inspection for signs of damage, correct routing and corrosion
Brake fluid: Check level
Drive shaft: Visual inspection of the boots for leaks and signs of damage
Tires and spare wheel: Check condition and tire pressure
Door locks, lid locks and safety hook of the front lid, Check to ensure that they are adjusted correctly and function properly
Vehicle lights: Check operation
All headlights: Check setting
Horn: Check operation
Windshield washer, headlight washer: Check fluid level and nozzle settings, make sure to check the antifreeze during winter months
All other electrical equipment as well as indicator and warning lights: Check operation
During road or dynamometer test:
Brake pedal and parking brake (also operating travel), engine, clutch, transmission, automatic speed control, steering system, heating, air-conditioning system and instruments: Operation-test
Oils, fluids: Visual inspection for leaks



Additional maintenance every 60,000 miles
Replace polyrib belt

Additional maintenance every 90,000 miles
Manual transmission: Change oil
Automatic transmission: Change ATF and ATF filter
Differentials: Change oil (includes front differential, if equipped)

[NickCats]

JC / Bruce,

Looking at the owners manual ( this is for MY 2000 ) , 5W30 is ok if the ambient temperature is generally lower than 50 degrees F.

Nick

Nick, I think part of the potential problem here is that Porsche has since updated thier oil recommendations, and that trumps the info in the Owner's Manual.

JCL12, how do you know the oil in the car is 5W30? Are you going by the actual receipt, which may be wrong? Or did they specifically tell you 5W30? I would bet they used the correct oil if they just did this last Fall. Give them a call, play "dumb" and ask the service advisor, "What viscosity oil do you use in the Porsche?" And see what they say.

If they in fact used 5W30...I would ask for a refund in some way or part. Worth a call to PCNA too. This may only work if they were a Porsche dealership.

[ralphie]

i was under the impression that for normal temperature running and starting (0-40'C), 0W40 was fine.

the manual, however, doesn't mention this.

been using 0W40 all along.

[NickCats]

Here's the latest list of Porsche approved oils :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=393996

Also, here's a good thread with some good input from Tool Pants regarding Porsche approved oil :

http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13437&page=1&pp=20

Nick

[JCL12]

Originally Posted by bmussatti

Nick, I think part of the potential problem here is that Porsche has since updated thier oil recommendations, and that trumps the info in the Owner's Manual.

JCL12, how do you know the oil in the car is 5W30? Are you going by the actual receipt, which may be wrong? Or did they specifically tell you 5W30? I would bet they used the correct oil if they just did this last Fall. Give them a call, play "dumb" and ask the service advisor, "What viscosity oil do you use in the Porsche?" And see what they say.

If they in fact used 5W30...I would ask for a refund in some way or part. Worth a call to PCNA too. This may only work if they were a Porsche dealership.

Well, I don't think i'll be getting a refund. The dealer was 400 miles away. The tech told me he was using 5w30, we debated 0w40 vs 5w30 and I gave in. Bad move on my part. I watched him pour from a large 5w30 jug...so that is how I know. My receipt may also say as such.


*********
Moving on, I have been reviewing costs and basic scope of work for the 45K. The only "value add" work they seem to be doing is oil and filters. All else looks like inspection....so what otherparts and labor for fixing/changing parts are included?

The qoutes I have so far are $950 and $725 all from dealers in the northern VA / southern MD area. My goal is to trim cost below $550 and retain quality. Is this possible? (I still have 1 informal request for qoute out and I am sending more)

[racer_d]

JCL12.. what year is your Boxster? As you learned, your 45K service is nothing more than a bunch of inspections, plus an oil/filter change. 5/30 will not kill your motor. Relax, and next time be sure to choose one of the better viscosities for your new climate and driving needs.

Have you looking into independent shops? There are several in the area (IMA, ASG, Intersport and Autobahn all come quickly to mind and I know there are a few others) and likely no farther for you than a stealership.

[JCL12]

Originally Posted by racer_d

JCL12.. what year is your Boxster? As you learned, your 45K service is nothing more than a bunch of inspections, plus an oil/filter change. 5/30 will not kill your motor. Relax, and next time be sure to choose one of the better viscosities for your new climate and driving needs.

Have you looking into independent shops? There are several in the area (IMA, ASG, Intersport and Autobahn all come quickly to mind and I know there are a few others) and likely no farther for you than a stealership.

I have an request for quote in to IMA. I will also call the indy shops you referenced now that I have some more names...so TYVM for that

The $950 came from a stealership in tysons corner. I was going to drive to Rockville MD to trim to $725 from a stealership...but I want to cut cost further for a glorified inspection.

[racer_d]

I imagine for an oil change alone at an independent you are looking at $150-200. Sorry. Oil aint cheap and most shop rates are $100/hr around here. You could try one of the Curry's locations (I've used the Chantilly one, but they are also in Dulles and Falls Church). They did do some basic work (in fact, it may have been an oilchange) and some tire mounting for me. When I had a major issue, they realized it was beyond their skills so I went to IMA. A firend of mine had a disasterous experience at their Dulles location with his 996. You have been warned

RPM in newington is another shop.

If you haven't already, there is www.dorkiphus.net DC area group of Porsche fans. Mostly 911 guys who like to "DIY" because of high shop rates. Several of us have or have had boxsters too.

[JCL12]

Originally Posted by racer_d

I imagine for an oil change alone at an independent you are looking at $150-200. Sorry. Oil aint cheap and most shop rates are $100/hr around here. You could try one of the Curry's locations (I've used the Chantilly one, but they are also in Dulles and Falls Church). They did do some basic work (in fact, it may have been an oilchange) and some tire mounting for me.

When I had a major issue, they realized it was beyond their skills so I went to IMA. A firend of mine had a disasterous experience at their Dulles location with his 996. You have been warned

Wow...indy shop still 150-200? The dealership in upstate NY I was at was $160 lol!

The "disaster" at Dulles...was that Curry or IMA? IMA seems to be very near Dulles but actually in Chantilly. I wish I had mechanical skills or DIY skill...the best quote I have thus far is $725.

Lastly...I probably won't get around to getting an oil change for at least two weeks. I am going to make an assumption that driving with 5w30 won't do anything horrible since at one time this was on "the list" and will just be sub optimal... agree/disagree?

[Brucelee]

Personally, I WOULD get the oil of there right away. If my memory is correct, the viscosity of the 5W-30 oil at temp is quite a bit less than the 0W-40 oil. Why risk an issue in the VA heat for the cost of an oil change.

BTW-Do the oil change yourself and save the dough.

[Topless]

If it was my car (and it isn't) I would not sweat 5w30 oil at all for typical driving. Of course the 24hr Le Mans is out and probably the Pike's Peak race. Modern synthetic oils are light years ahead of standard 30w oil of just a few years ago. Just one guys opinion. Choose wisely.

[JCL12]

Originally Posted by Topless

If it was my car (and it isn't) I would not sweat 5w30 oil at all for typical driving. Of course the 24hr Le Mans is out and probably the Pike's Peak race. Modern synthetic oils are light years ahead of standard 30w oil of just a few years ago. Just one guys opinion. Choose wisely.

Since I am at 42K, I am in a very good spot to just take care of the 45K a little early and get the oil changed soon. It works out fine, because I'll have 18K between now and the 60K which will be well timed/scheduled to do 1 oil change between the 45K and 60K. ie, no added cost of planned maintenance from expedited intervals

Despite that, I was thinking...if its 60 out our 90 out, the engine is much much hotter than ambient air. The temp gauge is going to read about the same either way since I either drive on big roads or only take short trips for "city style" driving. As a result, I wonder how much this summer hear really affects oil viscosity.

[Brucelee]

The temp guage is not an accurate reflection of engine oil, it measures coolant temps and none to accurately at that.

An engine oil can exceed the coolant temp by up to 100 degrees and you would not know that.

Having said all that, why all the hand wringing on the oil change? The moron put the wrong oil in your car. Drain and fill. Take you like 30 minutes tops.

Good luck.

About 60% of your heat management (cooling) comes from the oil.

[Sputter]

There is a reason for the change from 5w-30. I'd change it asap. (since you're asking)