02-01-2008, 07:49 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 119
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Dead Battery = No Engine Block for negative cable
Hi, My 01 Boxster has been sitting up for about the last 6 weeks so when I go to start it and Battery is dead, I read a few post on here that said follow the basic steps for giving my car a jump, however the last part of the basic steps include touching the negative jumper cable to the engine block or frame. So what do I do with the negative cable since the engine is behind the front seats???? Can anyone tell me where to stick the negative jumper cable so that I can jump my car?
Last edited by joshua6060; 02-01-2008 at 08:00 AM.
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02-01-2008, 08:09 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,557
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On the negative battery terminal...................
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02-01-2008, 08:20 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 119
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Every Battery Jump Instructions I have read tells you not to put the negative on the negative battery terminal........
"You usually want to avoid placing the Negative(-) cable directly on the dead battery to minimize the chance for explosions. "
"Attach the other end of that cable to the engine block of the car with the dead battery. Look for unpainted metal surfaces and be sure it will clear anything moving when the car starts. Do not attach the negative cable to the dead battery itself"
"Connect the other end of the negative cable to metal on the engine block on the car with the dead battery. Don't connect it to the dead battery, "
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02-01-2008, 08:27 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 644
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Hi Josh,
No need to try to get the cable to the engine block. Since the battery is located in the front luggage compartment, just find a metal part of the car that is exposed (preferrably one that is attached to the frame--not onto the amplifier either) and hook it up there. You can find exposed hardware along the frame (if it's painted, just scratch off some of the paint---though, it shouldn't make too much of a difference).
BTW, there has been much discussion about jumping the battery of our cars due to the sensivity of our computer system and the possible expense that one might incur.
IMHO, if the battery is old and completely dead (interior / dash lights does not work) then maybe it's time for a new battery. (If you take this route, do not forget your radio code---usually found on a card that comes with your manual). Another alternative would be to use a trickle charger and the last alternative, IMHO, the jumper cables.
Good luck with that!
Last edited by dcporsche99; 02-01-2008 at 08:34 AM.
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02-01-2008, 08:34 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: In the garage...
Posts: 1,731
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couple of options if you don't want to hook to the neg term....
- use a slow charger on it
- use a fast charge on it
- try to find some unpainted steel body surface to attach it to (i.e. bolt)
- use a cigarette lighter charger
- use a cigarette lighter jumper
- buy a new battery
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02-01-2008, 08:41 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 119
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the dash bored lights all come on so i think the battery is probably still good.....
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02-01-2008, 08:46 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 644
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Then, just use a trickle charger ( 6 amperes or less). I have a Schumacher brand that plugs into the wall (you can purchase this at any automotive shop)....as BB mentioned, there is also a cigarette trickle charger (I've only seen these online---like fleabay) available as well.
(Note: If I had to purchase a new one, I would go with the one that plugs into the wall and turns off automatically once the battery has been fully charged).
Last edited by dcporsche99; 02-01-2008 at 08:50 AM.
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02-01-2008, 09:13 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Texarkana, Texas
Posts: 959
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My negative terminal on the battery has a short wire that runs to a bolt just forward of the battery. That's a good ground point. I simply connect my battery charger to that bolt and the positive terminal and put it on a slow charge.
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02-01-2008, 09:30 AM
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#9
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Porscheectomy
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle Area
Posts: 3,011
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When you touch the negative jumper cable to the car, it can make a small spark because it should be the last wire connected to the car. The reason it's recommended to connect to a location other than the battery terminal is to make sure this little spark is far away from any potentially explosive gasses generated by and residing near the battery.
Use a strut bolt. Don't use the bolt that holds the negative cable to the chassis, it's right next to the battery. Don't use any other location that's right next to the battery.
Jumping and charging are very different operations. If you're charging your battery (which is better to do if you're not stuck somewhere), disconnect the battery from the car, attach the cables to the battery, and plug the charger into the wall.
Last edited by blue2000s; 02-01-2008 at 09:37 AM.
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02-01-2008, 10:23 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 644
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I have to agree with blue2000 regarding the placement of the cable, but as far as removing the battery.....although, it is the recommended way, IMHO, I think it's a bit tedious to remove the battery from the car each tiime you use the trickle charger.... I think that's fine if you're storing the car for long periods (re: winter), but leaving it in the car with the trickle charger on has not been deleterious as far as I know??? (re: unless you leave it plugged for days---although leaving the charger on for days is not good for the battery in either case) ... thawing out the battery in extreme cold conditions would be another reason I could think of at the moment that is also recommended ??? But again, ....never had a problem with leaving the battery hooked up in the car while using the trickle charger....
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02-01-2008, 10:31 AM
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#11
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Porscheectomy
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle Area
Posts: 3,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcporsche99
I have to agree with blue2000 regarding the placement of the cable, but as far as removing the battery.....although, it is the recommended way, IMHO, I think it's a bit tedious to remove the battery from the car each tiime you use the trickle charger.... I think that's fine if you're storing the car for long periods (re: winter), but leaving it in the car with the trickle charger on has not been deleterious as far as I know??? (re: unless you leave it plugged for days---although leaving the charger on for days is not good for the battery in either case) ... thawing out the battery in extreme cold conditions would be another reason I could think of at the moment that is also recommended ??? But again, ....never had a problem with leaving the battery hooked up in the car while using the trickle charger.... 
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Sorry for any confusion. I meant to disconnect the car's cables from the battery. This is to keep current draw on the charger from burning up the charger more than anything else.
I agree that you don't need to remove the battery from the car. I leave my battery attached to a battery tender in the car all winter. I've seen recommendations of removing the battery from the car to reduce the risk of hydrogen and oxygen gas build-up while charging, but if the car's in a ventilated area and the vent tube is left attached, there's not issues.
Last edited by blue2000s; 02-01-2008 at 10:34 AM.
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02-01-2008, 10:32 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 119
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Hey, when I went home for lunch, I jumped started the car using the bolt that holds the negative cable to the chassis, (had not read blue2000s's post until now)
My logic was that this is clearly a bolt attached to the frame so it seems safe to me as previous post suggested finding a bolt to attach the negative clamp to.....
It started right up, drove it to run some errands and back to work, probably a good 50 minutes total. Hopefully I won't be stuck in the parking lot after work.
blue2000's post "Don't use the bolt that holds the negative cable to the chassis, it's right next to the battery"
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02-01-2008, 10:54 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 644
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Hey Joshua6060,
Glad to hear you're up and running!
Hey blue2000s,
Thanks for the clarification.
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02-03-2008, 10:45 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 84
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I had to jump mine at a friends a couple of weeks ago due to leaving the hood open for a couple of hours. I did not see any good place to connect the short cable to for negative, so just hit the negative post and it jumped.
I have not driven it for a week and it is dead again. Time for a new battery. OEM or aftermarket? Suggestions?
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02-03-2008, 11:27 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: In the garage...
Posts: 1,731
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might wanna check the fluid level in the battery first and put it on a maintainer/charge first to see if it can be brought back (depending on how old). Otherwise, here's some info on replacements....
Mike Focke's Battery Replacement Info
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02-03-2008, 03:27 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 84
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Mike's got a great site! I now am thinking of going with an Optima. I have put them in my other cars. Cheers.
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02-03-2008, 05:01 PM
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#17
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Porsche "Purist"
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,123
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Only the last connection will cause a spark.
Hook up both cables on the Boxster's battery posts.
Hook the + cable to the + post of the other vehicle.
Attach the - cable to the block of the other vehicle.
__________________
1998 Boxster with 7.8 DME, 2005 3.6 liter/325 hp, Variocam Plus, 996 Instrument panel
2001 Boxster original owner. I installed used motor at 89k.
1987 924S. 2002 996TT. PST-2
Owned and repaired Porsches since 1974. Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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02-03-2008, 09:22 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Rocklin, CA
Posts: 14
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Replacing battery
I bought the Costco battery (Costco Kirkland Group 48) as per Mike Focke's page and it fits perfectly. The way I get around with having to re-enter the radio code (since I didn't get it from the previous owner), is to connect the terminal cables with another car's battery using the jump cables. I used the negative cable and grip to the bolt on the car body. And quickly disconnect the positive cable cramp, grip it with the positive jump cable. Then I was able to remove and replace the battery, and reconnect the positive side first. When all is done the radio was working as before.
--Ken
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02-04-2008, 05:59 AM
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#19
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Porscheectomy
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle Area
Posts: 3,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkmchan
I bought the Costco battery (Costco Kirkland Group 48) as per Mike Focke's page and it fits perfectly. The way I get around with having to re-enter the radio code (since I didn't get it from the previous owner), is to connect the terminal cables with another car's battery using the jump cables. I used the negative cable and grip to the bolt on the car body. And quickly disconnect the positive cable cramp, grip it with the positive jump cable. Then I was able to remove and replace the battery, and reconnect the positive side first. When all is done the radio was working as before.
--Ken
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Find out that battery code. It's bound to bite you eventually.
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02-04-2008, 10:28 AM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 84
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ditto - I needed my radio code at 1am after doing the Ipod cable install inacurately...the first time....grrr. Renntech.com came to the rescue 48hrs later with code option. Dealer wanted $150 to dig through the computer to find it. LOL!
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