Help! Clutch Bleeder Nipple Valve Size!

[blinkwatt]

Someone suggested to me just to replace the slave cyclinder,it's only $45 and it's an Audi part. Doesn't look like there is too much to replacing the whole thing;

-remove the mounting bolt

-slide towards the rear

-remove slave cyclinder hydraulic line from slave cyclinder

-installation is reverse of removal,note the following;
-bleed hydraulic system

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

That's not a bad idea on a '99, but you should really change both the Clutch Master and the Slave at the same time. Often, when you only replace one, the other fails in short order due to added stress from the better springs and seals in the new one. I've seen this happen lots of times and it's usually easier to do it all at one time - only have to bleed it once. The Clutch Master Cylinder is PN# 996.423.171.05 and should also run somewhere around $50. Good Luck!...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[blinkwatt]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

That's not a bad idea on a '99, but you should really change both the Clutch Master and the Slave at the same time. Often, when you only replace one, the other fails in short order due to added stress from the better springs and seals in the new one. I've seen this happen lots of times and it's usually easier to do it all at one time - only have to bleed it once. The Clutch Master Cylinder is PN# 996.423.171.05 and should also run somewhere around $50. Good Luck!...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Hmm,perhaps I will do that. Changing the Master doesn't seem that hard,more time consuming. First I have to figure out how to remove the hydraulic line from the Slave first. I haven't worked on anything like this on the Boxster,so this is all new.

Does anyone what size socket I should use to remove the clutch slave mounting bolt?

Does anyone know how to remove the hydraulic line?

Is it as simple as untwisting and then retwisting on the new Slave?

[CJ_Boxster]

If you replace the clutch master or the slave be sure to bench bleed it first or else you'll never get a firm clutch and air will sit inside the master or slave until bench bled.

[blinkwatt]

What is 'bench bleeding'? The Bentley Manual says that after replacing the Master bled the slave for at least 30 seconds to ensure that there is no air. The Manual also states to bled the Slave after it is replaced as well.

[blinkwatt]

I found that the replacement part # is 8EO.721.257.F BUT it says that I could need the updated line and union,anyone know what that is about?

Here is a pic;
https://www.************************************************************/secure/PartImages/8E0721257F.jpg

It looks easy to do,so I will drive the car as is till I have the time to change it out.

[blinkwatt]

I took this pic just in case anyone is going to bleed their own clutch in the future, all other pics or drawing I've seen are craptastic. This is what the bleeder nipple and valve looks like,enjoy.

[CJ_Boxster]

Originally Posted by blinkwatt

What is 'bench bleeding'? The Bentley Manual says that after replacing the Master bled the slave for at least 30 seconds to ensure that there is no air. The Manual also states to bled the Slave after it is replaced as well.

Thats what bench bleeding it, its an older term for bleeding the air out of cyclindars before you isntall them. Basically have the parts suck up fluid and force out the air.

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

The hydraulic line will have a Flare Nut fitting on it. The ones on the Calipers are 10mm, so I assume it's the same.

The change in Line and Union probably notes a change to whatever Nut is currently used and you most likely have to swap them all out...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by blinkwatt

What is 'bench bleeding'? The Bentley Manual says that after replacing the Master bled the slave for at least 30 seconds to ensure that there is no air. The Manual also states to bled the Slave after it is replaced as well.

Hi,

Bench Bleeding is just what it says. With the Master on a Bench (usually held in a vice), you bleed it by adding fluid to the reservoir (in this case a line) and push the Pushrod until all the bubbles come out of the Line end. These things usually come with plastic caps and once you have done this, you replace the plastic caps to hold the fluid in. You still have to bleed the thing again to purge any air from the Line once it's installed, but if you haven't previously bled the air from the bore, it isn't alays possible to do so after installation because of orientation, or height vs the height of the Slave, which is what I suspect. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99