2002 Boxster S Front Camber Settings

[LuisR]

For AutoX and track events, is there a way I can modify the front camber to improve turn in speed, without the use of aftermarket camber plates???
I don't want to get aftermarket camber plates since that will move me to a different group. I want to remain in the Stock category.
I know that the first thing to do is get a wider tire up front but that still does not solve the excessive outside edge ware problem on tires.
So can I make it at least a little better (more negative) from stock components??? I know that without aftermarket camber plates I won't get much negative camber out of the front wheels but can it be improved?
Thanks
LRR

[John V]

Nope. Nothing you can do. Sorry.

[CJ_Boxster]

There are camber adjustment bolts on non-s and S models of boxsters. Remove the plastic covers over the top of the strut towers... you'll see the bolts, Might be 3 of them there. I see them when i removed my plastic cover to change the cabin filter under the hood.

[LuisR]

Originally Posted by CJ_Boxster

There are camber adjustment bolts on non-s and S models of boxsters. Remove the plastic covers over the top of the strut towers... you'll see the bolts, Might be 3 of them there. I see them when i removed my plastic cover to change the cabin filter under the hood.

I know what you are talking about and I know about these three bolts, my questions is if I move the strut all the way "In", would that help get a better negative camber??? (See picture)

[racer_d]

The bottom line is that on a "stock" 986, you won't see more than 1.5 deg of negative camber, and more likely closer to -.8 to -1 degree negative camber. ( i say -1.5 because some have claimed to have gotten so much, but that seems more fluke than reality)

To get more, will require the use of camber plates. For almost every car club, using camber plates will put you in an Improved or Modified class (in autocross for instance) and well, without changing a lot of other stuff, you Boxster will suffer to keep up in its new class.

If class isn't important, grab some camber plates (Approx $300-500) and new shocks/springs to lower the car and really get the most of your new negative camber capabilities.

[John V]

Originally Posted by LuisR

I know what you are talking about and I know about these three bolts, my questions is if I move the strut all the way "In", would that help get a better negative camber??? (See picture)

Yes, if you move those all the way in you will have max negative. I figured you had already done that.

My stock Boxster only gets -0.8 with these maxed out.

[LuisR]

Could some one who has done this mod them selfs explained to me how to do it.
I know the car has to be raised, but do I have to compress the springs before I unbolt the three bolts???
Also, should I ONLY change the camber for AUtoX and track events?? or can I change it to max neg camber and leave it there for AutoX/Track and street driving? I am curious to know if I will ware out the inside of the tire by driving the car on the streets with max neg camber. Has anybody driven their car on the street with max neg camber up front??
Thanks,
LRR

[John V]

Toe is what kills tires, not camber. I run zero toe and maxed-out front camber and don't have excessive tire wear. I have had my car set up this way for the past 20,000 miles and I'm still on the same tires. The tires are wearing very evenly.

It's simple to do.

1) Raise the front of the car (you can do one corner at a time if you like)
2) Loosen (but do not remove) those three nuts.
3) Push the top of the strut inward as far as it will go and hold it there
4) Tighten to spec those three nuts

Do the same on the other side.

Doing this will also change the front toe setting on your car, so you'll need to get it realigned after this change.