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Old 04-03-2007, 07:25 PM   #1
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100,000 Mile Tune Up?

Ello everyone,

My relatively new-to-me 97 box is nearing 100k miles. I've just started getting the common CELs P0410, p1411, P1123, and P1125 (all related to Oxygen sensor out of range, or secondary air injection "signal implausible." These codes are according to my Durametric system.

I figure since it's nearly time to do the routine maintenance, I might as well do a full tune up.. I was hoping you guys can help me compile a list, as my Bentley book is about 1000 miles away at the moment (where my box is).

Here's what I'm thinking, let me know if anything is unnecessary:

Oxygen sensors (to potentially fix my CELs)
Spark Plugs/Wires (what's everyone's favorite brand?)
Serpentine/Drive belt
Air Filter
Cabin air filter
Brake Pads (the rotors seem fine for now), what brands does everyone like for street/AutoX action?
Brake fluid flush
transmission fluid replacement
clutch fluid replacement

Should I be looking at swapping out the Air/Oil Separator just as a precaution?

Off the top of my head, i can't think of anything else I hear commonly failing, please let me know anything I overlooked!


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Old 04-03-2007, 07:56 PM   #2
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Should I be looking at swapping out the Air/Oil Separator just as a precaution?

If it's not broken don't fix it.
-99' Zenith Blue 5-spd...didn't agree with a center divider on the freeway
-01' S Orient Red Metallic 6-spd...money pit...sold to buy a house
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Old 04-03-2007, 08:34 PM   #3
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The Boxster uses Coil-on-Plug and not the standard wires, I know of no Aftermarket pieces available. Stick with the OEM Plugs - Bosch FGR 7KQC or BERU 14 FGR 7KQC, there's nothing better as the engine was designed to use these.

Also, at 100k, I'd also go with a Coolant change, it's not Lifetime but more like 5yr./150k mi., replace with OEM (spendy) or Halvoline LongTerm Coolant. Siphon off as much fluid as you can from the Power Steering Reservoir using a Turkey Baster and refill with Pentosin CHF 11S Only!. Then repeat the procedure after driving the car over a period of days until you've added the entire Litre of fresh Pentosin.

Clutch and Brakes use the same Fluid Reservoir, so using a Power Bleeder (no more than 19PSI) bleed them all at the same time. A Power Bleeder is called for and recommended. With 100k mi., it'd be too easy to pop the seals on the Master Cylinder using the traditional pump the Brake Pedal method. Recommend ATE Super Blue or Gold Brake Fluid (whichever is opposite color of what you have). It's identical stuff, but offered in contrasting colors to let you know when the old fluid has been entirely flushed - look for the color change.

Other than that, check all hinges, Doors, Hood, Trunk (incl. Pedal linkage) and clean/grease as necessary. Good Luck!

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Last edited by MNBoxster; 04-04-2007 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 04-04-2007, 07:54 PM   #4
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Thanks for your timely, thorough and precise, answer, Jim! I'm looking up the sources for the parts now, so and I'm hoping I can do it this weekend

Blinkwatt, Thanks for the idea about the air/oil separator.. . I think you're right in this case, I'm not going to poke at it

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