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S50Sinner · 08-08-2024, 10:17 AM

I've done a few free mods for daily driving, but they could help on track (plus some I've heard about but not tried)

1. remove the clutch helper spring. This is easy and free, there are plenty of write-ups around, look up "clutch helper delete". Others have replaced it with a McMaster-Carr spring, but I find the unassisted clutch pedal perfect, and can feel the bite point way better. To preserve engagement of the top-of-travel switch, I zip-tied a piece of vacuum hose onto the nub that pushes it. Sometimes on start-up I have to pull the clutch up with my toes to engage it, then it goes back to working perfect for the whole day. But any squishy thing between the pedal leg and the top switch will keep everything working well.

2. I don't think the snorkel delete does anything noticeable for performance, but it makes the intake sound really cool and gets rid of a few ounces. Ripping the foam off the stock air filter also makes it lighter and hypothetically better-flowing, but of course it's just another excuse to make the intake louder. My intake sounds phenomenal with both of these done.

3. I haven't done it yet, but it's popular to drill through the exhaust tip into the muffler chamber to get a fuller exhaust note. Again, drill out like 2 grams of metal as an excuse to have a louder car. CRIOS mod works even better if you have a welder.

3. Shifter risers are popular, just a plate that lifts the whole mechanism closer to the steering wheel. Pretty easy to fab if you have a sheet-metal brake or a bench vise and hammer. I haven't done this or the following mods.

4. slotting the front strut towers can let you get more camber, you want close to 1.5 degrees for ideal/ neutral cornering, and will also keep your outside shoulders from getting chewed up in endurance races.

5. Many spec racers delete the evap canister from behind the front right fender, it's supposedly quite heavy.

Here are some not-so-free upgrades that are often recommended:

1. An under-drive pulley helps keep the power steering system from overheating and reclaims some 5hp from parasitic drag. If you can spare the cash, the harmonically-balanced one can possibly extend engine life.

2. A deep oil sump kit is nice to have

3. The 996 oil pressure sensor is a direct bolt-in where the factory sensor goes, and can be plugged into an oil pressure gauge. The factory sensor is an on-off for the idiot light.

4. another pair of rear wheels on the front are popular for racing. Combined with added camber it makes the car too tail-happy, but with a bigger front sway bar it balances out. Worth considering if you still think it understeers too much after slotting the towers.

I don't have experience with any of these other than the first two, but have been browsing this forum avidly for several months and this is the sum of what I learned.

08-08-2024, 10:17 AM	#3
S50Sinner Registered User Join Date: Nov 2023 Location: West Bloomfield, Michigan Posts: 52	I've done a few free mods for daily driving, but they could help on track (plus some I've heard about but not tried) 1. remove the clutch helper spring. This is easy and free, there are plenty of write-ups around, look up "clutch helper delete". Others have replaced it with a McMaster-Carr spring, but I find the unassisted clutch pedal perfect, and can feel the bite point way better. To preserve engagement of the top-of-travel switch, I zip-tied a piece of vacuum hose onto the nub that pushes it. Sometimes on start-up I have to pull the clutch up with my toes to engage it, then it goes back to working perfect for the whole day. But any squishy thing between the pedal leg and the top switch will keep everything working well. 2. I don't think the snorkel delete does anything noticeable for performance, but it makes the intake sound really cool and gets rid of a few ounces. Ripping the foam off the stock air filter also makes it lighter and hypothetically better-flowing, but of course it's just another excuse to make the intake louder. My intake sounds phenomenal with both of these done. 3. I haven't done it yet, but it's popular to drill through the exhaust tip into the muffler chamber to get a fuller exhaust note. Again, drill out like 2 grams of metal as an excuse to have a louder car. CRIOS mod works even better if you have a welder. 3. Shifter risers are popular, just a plate that lifts the whole mechanism closer to the steering wheel. Pretty easy to fab if you have a sheet-metal brake or a bench vise and hammer. I haven't done this or the following mods. 4. slotting the front strut towers can let you get more camber, you want close to 1.5 degrees for ideal/ neutral cornering, and will also keep your outside shoulders from getting chewed up in endurance races. 5. Many spec racers delete the evap canister from behind the front right fender, it's supposedly quite heavy. Here are some not-so-free upgrades that are often recommended: 1. An under-drive pulley helps keep the power steering system from overheating and reclaims some 5hp from parasitic drag. If you can spare the cash, the harmonically-balanced one can possibly extend engine life. 2. A deep oil sump kit is nice to have 3. The 996 oil pressure sensor is a direct bolt-in where the factory sensor goes, and can be plugged into an oil pressure gauge. The factory sensor is an on-off for the idiot light. 4. another pair of rear wheels on the front are popular for racing. Combined with added camber it makes the car too tail-happy, but with a bigger front sway bar it balances out. Worth considering if you still think it understeers too much after slotting the towers. I don't have experience with any of these other than the first two, but have been browsing this forum avidly for several months and this is the sum of what I learned.