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husker boxster · 10-08-2021, 07:22 PM

Since you list AAA Speedway, the sump baffle would be a good upgrade. The factory baffle is like a cofferdam, so oil can spill over the top of the cofferdam under certain circumstances (like driving on long banked corners). The upgraded baffle walls go all the way to the top of the engine, eliminating the oil from spilling out.

I'm not sure if this is true with the 986, but on the 987 the rod bolts are weak and don't like extended runs at redline. They'll stretch at redline, causing the rod bearings to slip (known as a spun bearing). I shift at 6K rpm. Max torque is 5300, so you give up a little hp by shifting at 6 rather than going to 7 but no loss of torque. And since no one else cares how fast or slow you go, you'll save your engine by shifting earlier.

Another wear item that takes a beating on rovals is the lower control arm (lca) bushings. When you transition from flat surface to the bank of the oval, it's esp tough on these bushings. The factory bushings are rubber and age out and crack. Tarett makes an excellent replacement monoball bushing. You may also want to buy their rear toe arms. They're a turnbuckle rather than an egg shaped washer and keep the rear toe in line much better. There are a myriad of items available from Tarett. They make high quality parts, but be careful - their site is very addictive and you can run up a lengthy list and bill. My strategy has been to buy a few Tarett parts ea yr.

Last yr I added Pedro's technobrace2 and felt it improved the handling of my CSS. It's a bar / brace that connects the bottom of the left and right rear suspension arms. In theory it keeps them from flexing in hard corners. $100 and took less than an hr to install.

And finally, you may want to consider a race alignment. Depending on how many DEs you do per yr, a race alignment will save the outer edge of your tires (but at the expense of the inner edge). I would recommend starting with your stock suspension rather than going full boat with GT3 control arms. The stock suspension should give you a -1 to -1.5 camber adjustment. You can see if that is a nice compromise between track and street life for your tires. Having (more) negative camber gives you more tire contact in the corners.

Welcome to the slippery slope.

10-08-2021, 07:22 PM	#2
husker boxster Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Omaha Posts: 2,947	Since you list AAA Speedway, the sump baffle would be a good upgrade. The factory baffle is like a cofferdam, so oil can spill over the top of the cofferdam under certain circumstances (like driving on long banked corners). The upgraded baffle walls go all the way to the top of the engine, eliminating the oil from spilling out. I'm not sure if this is true with the 986, but on the 987 the rod bolts are weak and don't like extended runs at redline. They'll stretch at redline, causing the rod bearings to slip (known as a spun bearing). I shift at 6K rpm. Max torque is 5300, so you give up a little hp by shifting at 6 rather than going to 7 but no loss of torque. And since no one else cares how fast or slow you go, you'll save your engine by shifting earlier. Another wear item that takes a beating on rovals is the lower control arm (lca) bushings. When you transition from flat surface to the bank of the oval, it's esp tough on these bushings. The factory bushings are rubber and age out and crack. Tarett makes an excellent replacement monoball bushing. You may also want to buy their rear toe arms. They're a turnbuckle rather than an egg shaped washer and keep the rear toe in line much better. There are a myriad of items available from Tarett. They make high quality parts, but be careful - their site is very addictive and you can run up a lengthy list and bill. My strategy has been to buy a few Tarett parts ea yr. Last yr I added Pedro's technobrace2 and felt it improved the handling of my CSS. It's a bar / brace that connects the bottom of the left and right rear suspension arms. In theory it keeps them from flexing in hard corners. $100 and took less than an hr to install. And finally, you may want to consider a race alignment. Depending on how many DEs you do per yr, a race alignment will save the outer edge of your tires (but at the expense of the inner edge). I would recommend starting with your stock suspension rather than going full boat with GT3 control arms. The stock suspension should give you a -1 to -1.5 camber adjustment. You can see if that is a nice compromise between track and street life for your tires. Having (more) negative camber gives you more tire contact in the corners. Welcome to the slippery slope. __________________ GPRPCA Chief Driving Instructor 2008 Boxster S Limited Edition #005 2008 Cayman S Sport - Signal Green 1989 928 S4 5 spd - black Last edited by husker boxster; 10-08-2021 at 07:32 PM.