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Old 08-26-2021, 07:46 PM   #6
Stl-986
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Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 1,182
I'm still going to rub you on gaskets....might be symantics, but there aren't gaskets Dont know the shop you are referring to but without posting what the actual deviations are at idle and at 1700/3000 rpm I think you are going to tear it apart and not accomplish much.

Before you do anything I would record what your deviations are at idle & the rpms. If you have durametric, this is easy as it will export it all to a csv/excel file. I would gather rpm, engine temp, deviations & angles and misfire counts on all cylinders. You will need a starting to point anyway.

You should also capture your vacuum readings.

Cam actuation pads generally will wear at the same rate all things being equal and yes if you do 1 side you should do the other. Yes it is easier to do with it out of the car.

After you gather all the info I would drain the oil, check it for debris, check the filter and also drop the oil pan.

Not saying you shouldn't do it, just saying you should have more data. Timing the engine in the car isn't that difficult, much easier then dropping the engine & transmission, just a pain in the butt.

Which bank have you already done the cam pads & which bank is having the misfires? Bank 1 is pretty easy to do if you can get the exhaust out of the way. Bank 2 is harder but still possible.

Everything you describe is pretty spot on with my 2000 and I know the issue is the actuator. Pads need to be done but my issue is almost 90% certainly the issue that is causing it all to happen.


Does your oil light come on when coming to a stop right before it dies on you?
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