Hi guys, first post.
I’m looking into buying a 1997 Porsche Boxster, and I was wondering if I could fact check my research. GET A PPI. GET A PPI ON ANY BOXSTER IN WHICH SERIOUSLY YOU ARE INTERESTED. NARROW IT DOWN, AS THEY CAN RUN SEVERAL HUNDRED DOLLARS.
So obviously these cars have some problems. No argument there. How severe, and how soon it should be proactively replaced is my question. HOW SOON? ABSENT HISTORICAL REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE RECORDS I'D FACTOR IN $$$ FOR THE IMPORTANT STUFF (PLUGS, COILS, TUBES, WATER PUMP, AOS, AIR FILTER... YOU KNOW... KNOCK OUT THE BASIC STUFF UNTIL YOU;RE SATISFIED THE CAR IS ROADWORTHY.
IMS Bearing - Seems to be the big ticket item. My research has shown that on the 1997 year which uses the dual row bearing, the failure rate is a measly 1%. Im willing to take the 99% chance of a Porsche that will function fine, but will be looking to replace the bearing if and when the clutch needs replacing as its $400 or so for peace of mind. Thoughts? I WAS ALL WORRIED FOR THE FIRST FEW MONTHS, THEN FORGOT ABOUT IT. I CAN LIVE WITH 1%. OF COURSE... THE LOWER THE MILEAGE ON THE CAR... THE MORE CONCERN. BRIGHTER MINDS THAN I WILL CHIME IN I'M SURE.
RMS - This is less important, obviously excessive leaking is bad, but replacing it is only laborious and the seal is like $20. If it is barely leaking or not leaking at all, I am golden? I DON'T KNOW. NO LEAKS ON MINE. IF THE CAR YOU'RE LOOKING AT NEEDS A RMS REPLACEMENT I'VE HEARD DO THE CLUTCH WHILE YOU'RE IN THERE... AND VICE VERSA.
Cylinder liner - Someone had said that this was a problem only in 1998, the first 1997 year, didn’t have this problem, and it was addressed in the 1999 year on. DON'T KNOW. MAYBE HAVE THE OIL EXAMINED/TESTED.
Checking for oil emulsion and/or coolant mixing. If I see this, is it fixable? I wasn’t able to find too much on this. All I’m aware of is if I see the mayo of death around the cap, find a new car to purchase. MAYO ISN'T THE DEATH KNELL. LOTS OF POSTS ON THIS FORUM ABOUT THAT CHALLENGE. IF YOU PULL THE DIPSTICK AND IT LOOKS LIKE OIL... YOU'RE GOOD. A LOOK IN THE COOLANT TANK... JUST COOLANT... YOU'RE GOOD.
Coolant leaking in the back (damp or wet trunk area) - New tank is $600 or so, knock that off the price and still purchase? GO OEM ON THE TANK. ONLY OEM, NO AFTERMARKET CRAP. LIKELY LESS THAN $600... OUR SPONSOR SELLS THE OEM ~$350. LABOR MIGHT BE COSTLY BUT, WITH PATIENCE AND TENACITY... YOU CAN DO IT.
Anything else I need to be aware of? Most of my reading has led me to believe that this is a fabulous car other than these problems, which are generally quite expensive and would be extremely deterring if it wasn’t for the fact that it’s labor that costs the most, not the part. I can supply free labor
LOTS OF OTHER THINGS TO BE AWARE OF. MY RECOMMENDATION? START READING MANY, MANY POSTS UPON THIS FORUM. READ FIRST... ASK QUESTIONS LATER.
GOOD LUCK.
Thanks!