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Originally Posted by The Radium King
no sweat; can be very confusing. more info if interested:
camber is adjustable w eccentric bolts on the inboard end of the control arm in the rear. in the front it is the top of the wheel carrier that is moved to adjust camber - the strut mount is slotted. to get more camber than factory you have to get control arms that are adjustable or strut top mounts that are adjustable or, on the front, increase the slots in the top mount. note clearance issues with moving top in vs pushing bottom out when going for more negative camber, as well as impacts on track width (pushing bottom out widens track).
toe on the front is adjustable at the steering rack. on the rear there are eccentric bolts on the inboard end of the toe arm. note that as you lower the car the outboard attachment point for the toe arm on the wheel carrier moves up and impacts toe - this is why aggressively lowered cars require aftermarket adjustable toe arms. note also the impact on bump steer as you lower the vehicle which may make you want to consider adjustable ball joints on the end of your toe arms.
caster is not adjustable on our cars. note that the thrust arms attach to the control arms and that if you have adjustable control arms and go for an aggressive camber setting then you can push the caster out of spec. as such you need either adjustable thrust arms or an adjustable bushing where the thrust arm connects to the control arm.
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Thanks, very good info. When lowering, are there any other areas to consider that might bind or cause other geometric problems (at approx. -2.5 to -3 degrees camber)? And at these cambers and "wider track", will it still be beneficial to add spacers? Or should I ask if there is a set width to effective track?