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Okay so ran a few more tests on it again.
blue62, I did run it again with obd2 and paid attention to more of the features. I already had as much info as I could up to get benchmarks.
So the temp gauge works for coolant on both obd and the dash gauges. Air temp sensor seems to work too. In 98 to 103 degree weather air temp was saying 130 in intake. Kinda high I think. Stock air filter.
I also wouldn't say it is a cold start issue. More like a hot issue. Cold starts often have the best start for us, it's the ones where we go eat somewhere or in a store and come back is when it struggles.
thstone, we disconnected the maf and seemed to have no change. A pain to start again after clearing codes and nothing better after that.
I have noticed the fuel trims at idle vary between +5 and -8 or -10. At cruise it settles out mostly around 7 to 10 positive. After the spark plug change I gained my performance back mostly. Not much hesitation but when I gas it, it pegs out at 25 lean side.
However I finished changing the driver side plugs. Middle tube, number 3 I think, had oil in the tube. A good bit. Enough it saturated the plug and coil even at connection point. Cleaned them up really good with electric cleaner spray and rags. Put new plug in and promptly ordered a new oem tube with seals just in case the tube is bad.
Engine was cold when I finished and car fired up right away with 2 turn overs, sputtered for a minute about 150 rpm lower till settling back up with the new plugs. Fired it up a few times after it warmed up to 145 degrees and again near 180. It didn't last long...but I noticed something.
When the car struggles to start, and finally fires, all the lights are off on gauge except our top issue, and cel. But the battery light comes back on and cuts off after a second or two.
So I curiously when get it tested as quickly as I could. Battery tested at 12.7 volts and 100% charge and healthy. For some reason I got the car with an h8 battery. Yeah.
So I has alternator tested after. Volts were at 13.8 volts or so and the "alternator tested good however the voltage regulator is failing."
Now I am not being ignorant of getting my fuel pressure tests going but given I go back to work today for a month i havent had the ability to schedule some involving tests like that at any shop... but this brings me to a question again.
How, if at all possible, could the voltage regulator affect the performance of the car with these starting problems?
And how is it the regulator is listed as failing when I have no real symptoms of it? Unless this starting issue is one of them.
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