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I have found that the tires affect the car's reaction to following ruts and grooves even with the same alignment by just alternating between two sets of tires so an alignment with some camber can cause some of that but it may have been the tires that were on the car that had that issue as well. I run 2.7 degrees of camber on my Audi and it wears the insides of the tires but it is the only way to get that car to not understeer so I just rotate often.
As far as alignment shops: they are hit or miss and it is mainly on the tech himself at that shop. Most of the techs would just set the toe on most cars if everything else is even close to in spec. Alignments in the Detroit area where I live run from $49 on special to $89 on the high end. I perform my own alignments at a friend's shop. He bought a new $40k machine last year that uses the lasers that are pretty dog gone accurate. When aligning one of my lowered cars I have to input that info into the machine as it acts kind of funky and sometimes doesn't like it if I don't. Always set the rear specs first and then roll the car back and forth and set the front (most everyday shops will never do this for you or sit there and max out your camber and then go back and make sure it is the same on both sides, they like stock specs which have a wide range and if the arrows are in the green they ship it like that)
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