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Gelbster · 02-07-2017, 09:29 AM

If you plan to remove the sump plate often, it may be worth considering replacing the bolts with s/s studs. It saves wearing the threads in the crankcase halves.It is an inexpensive mod. There are s/s studs with an internal hex socket in the head. I think they are M6 coarse but verify length and thread pitch.If you measure crfully ,you'll find the holes in the c/c halves are much deeper than the bolts would suggest. Longer studs in the c/c halves give more 'purchase' for the threadlocker.Make sure you do not have overlong studs hanging below the sump plate.If a dangling stud got caught .....
I used them when I installed a deep sump Blue Loctitie in the c/c and green 290 or 294 after correct torque on the new (flanged?) nuts.YEMV

02-07-2017, 09:29 AM	#11
Gelbster Registered User Join Date: May 2014 Location: S.California Posts: 2,027	If you plan to remove the sump plate often, it may be worth considering replacing the bolts with s/s studs. It saves wearing the threads in the crankcase halves.It is an inexpensive mod. There are s/s studs with an internal hex socket in the head. I think they are M6 coarse but verify length and thread pitch.If you measure crfully ,you'll find the holes in the c/c halves are much deeper than the bolts would suggest. Longer studs in the c/c halves give more 'purchase' for the threadlocker.Make sure you do not have overlong studs hanging below the sump plate.If a dangling stud got caught ..... I used them when I installed a deep sump Blue Loctitie in the c/c and green 290 or 294 after correct torque on the new (flanged?) nuts.YEMV Last edited by Gelbster; 02-07-2017 at 02:30 PM.