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jakeru · 09-02-2016, 04:28 PM

It sounds like you have a buggered thread on your tie-rod end. Sure, if you have the correct fitting die, use it.

The re-threading tools we were talking about in one of your other threads include basically an oversized die (the one I am holding in the picture below is the M12x1.5mm, FYI) and also thread files (the 1.5mm pitch thread file is also pictured), which are two options in terms of tools you can use to fix this sort of problems.

The rethreading die, as you probably know, just threads on. When doing so, it will shave off offending "buggered" metal. The thread file, you hold perpendicularly to the offending buggered metal parts, and push it across to shave. You can focus right on the area that needs it. One handy feature of the thread file is it works on any diameter threaded shaft (but you do need to match the thread pitch, obviously, and also it won't work on female threads.). At times when I haven't had the right diameter rethreading die, the thread files have come to the rescue for thread restoration.

If you have enough skill and patience, and can see well enough to know exactly what metal needs having off (and hopefully also don't have a lot of material to remove) you can even use a "needle file" (very small/precise file) like in this kit: http://t.harborfreight.com/12-piece-needle-file-set-468.html

Other options are to just force on the nut (ideally a "sacrificial" non-locking nut, which you'd throw away afterwards - as it may become damaged - forced on with some grease or anti-seize, especially after being installed and removed a few times, may help push those buggered threads back to their proper position), or of course, to replace the part with the buggered threads with a new one.

By the way, you said you can't see the buggered threads, but since you tried on multiple nuts and they all bind, this is evidence indicating there are indeed buggered threads, so you probably just aren't looking closely enough or you would see them. If you had a thread file, use use a die, it would shave wherever the threads are buggered, which may facilitate identification of the buggered threads, (as where the metal gets shaved off it will appear different, usually shinier.)

09-02-2016, 04:28 PM	#13
jakeru Registered User Join Date: May 2015 Location: Greater Seattle, WA Posts: 534	It sounds like you have a buggered thread on your tie-rod end. Sure, if you have the correct fitting die, use it. The re-threading tools we were talking about in one of your other threads include basically an oversized die (the one I am holding in the picture below is the M12x1.5mm, FYI) and also thread files (the 1.5mm pitch thread file is also pictured), which are two options in terms of tools you can use to fix this sort of problems. The rethreading die, as you probably know, just threads on. When doing so, it will shave off offending "buggered" metal. The thread file, you hold perpendicularly to the offending buggered metal parts, and push it across to shave. You can focus right on the area that needs it. One handy feature of the thread file is it works on any diameter threaded shaft (but you do need to match the thread pitch, obviously, and also it won't work on female threads.). At times when I haven't had the right diameter rethreading die, the thread files have come to the rescue for thread restoration. If you have enough skill and patience, and can see well enough to know exactly what metal needs having off (and hopefully also don't have a lot of material to remove) you can even use a "needle file" (very small/precise file) like in this kit: http://t.harborfreight.com/12-piece-needle-file-set-468.html Other options are to just force on the nut (ideally a "sacrificial" non-locking nut, which you'd throw away afterwards - as it may become damaged - forced on with some grease or anti-seize, especially after being installed and removed a few times, may help push those buggered threads back to their proper position), or of course, to replace the part with the buggered threads with a new one. By the way, you said you can't see the buggered threads, but since you tried on multiple nuts and they all bind, this is evidence indicating there are indeed buggered threads, so you probably just aren't looking closely enough or you would see them. If you had a thread file, use use a die, it would shave wherever the threads are buggered, which may facilitate identification of the buggered threads, (as where the metal gets shaved off it will appear different, usually shinier.) Attached Images __________________ 2001 Boxster Last edited by jakeru; 09-02-2016 at 06:29 PM.