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Old 01-15-2016, 07:10 PM   #85
jakeru
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Greater Seattle, WA
Posts: 534
I experimented with several methods to strip the coating. Lessons learned:

1. Plastic razor blades are your best friend for this job! Occasionally switch to new or sharpen for best results. Does not damage the plastic substrate.
2. I did find somewhat enhanced results when combined with a coating "softening agent". Ones I tried:
* Isopropyl alcohol 70% works ok - I'd even step it up to 90% if I had hat. Put in spray bottle for easy application. Evaporates quickly, so work fast.
* DOT4 brake fluids also works ok. Can leave overnight for more than one night even - won't evaporate. Washes off with water, but handle carefully.
* Stay away from anything with acetone. It dissolves the plastic! I don't recall getting that great result with other hydrocarbon softening agents I tried (e.g., WD40 seemed to not help), but maybe increasing dwell time would help. I doubt it will be th magic bullet.
* I tried hot and cold water. Seems like a little heat helped, but nothing was really the "magic bullet."
* I tried windex, with ammonia. Not much help. (Maybe would work better with lots of dwell time.)
* I did not experiment with many other softening agents, but read some used acids (oven cleaner?) successfully
3. After scraping the bulk off with a plastic razor, you can get the last bit with a scotchbrite pad. I used grey scotchbrite, recommended by auto body supply for paint prep for this. Works best with heavy-moderate pressure.
4. There are a mix of different textures (smooth to pebbled surface) and plastics used throughout the interior components (quite a few ABS, some PC+ABS, some PA6 GF 15/30) and even one rubber component (EPDM) used at the ignition key surround. Be very careful with that rubber piece. It's easily damaged.
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Last edited by jakeru; 01-15-2016 at 07:13 PM.
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