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TonyF · 05-24-2006, 08:11 AM

Having read about this I was a bit apprehensive about tackling it. In fact it took 15 mins for the first side and less than 10 the next.
Here's my approach.
Pick a dry day! - hard here in Scotland.
Open top and drop spinlocks into the sockets. There is a little lug and recess that makes sure the spinlock is in the right position. There is a cutout in the side of eack lock barrel where the securing bolt engages. Care needed to put the correct lock in each side. In my case no force at all was needed to get them to sit in place.
With the top still open, because you can see better, - loosen the bolt (use an 8mm ring spanner)securing the trim panel which covers the seat belt mechanism. It's underneath the inside of the panel at an angle. You will know whan it is loose enough as you can then lift the top part of plastic trim up. Dont undo it completely. The bolt remains attached to the panel.
Move the seats as far forward as possible and likewise move the seat backs well forward.
Remove the philips headed screw in the carpeted section of the panel. The screw is close to the rear bulkhead and quite low down. The panel will still be attached to the bodywork by two plastic clips which are part of the panel. If you lift the panel directly upwards it will come off. Remember to disconnect the plug for the screen heater on the left panel.
Close the top.
Fit the retaining bolt to a 5mm hex key - I used a straight key, an extension and a ratchet handle. I used clingfilm to wrap round the bolt and the key. It grips well and is pretty insubstantial so isnt a problem to remove.
Move the head lining (held in place by an elastic strap) to the side with your fingers and feel for the socket behind the main pivot of the top. Now you know where it is - offer the bolt up and start turning clockwise. In my case there was no problem either locating the sockets or getting the bolts to bite. It takes a lot of turning though before they become tight so don't lose heart. Tighten the bolts securely but dont overtighten. The clingfilm will tear when you remove the hex key.
Open top again and admire the fitted spinlocks. If it bothers you - remove the little bits of cling film that are left attached to the bolt heads. Refit the trim panels and ensure the rubber door seal is back where it belongs covering the edge of the trim. Seasy!
I've still to go and collect my hardtop so can't offer advice on adjusting - Yet!

05-24-2006, 08:11 AM	#20
TonyF Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Scotland Posts: 1	More straightforward than you think Having read about this I was a bit apprehensive about tackling it. In fact it took 15 mins for the first side and less than 10 the next. Here's my approach. Pick a dry day! - hard here in Scotland. Open top and drop spinlocks into the sockets. There is a little lug and recess that makes sure the spinlock is in the right position. There is a cutout in the side of eack lock barrel where the securing bolt engages. Care needed to put the correct lock in each side. In my case no force at all was needed to get them to sit in place. With the top still open, because you can see better, - loosen the bolt (use an 8mm ring spanner)securing the trim panel which covers the seat belt mechanism. It's underneath the inside of the panel at an angle. You will know whan it is loose enough as you can then lift the top part of plastic trim up. Dont undo it completely. The bolt remains attached to the panel. Move the seats as far forward as possible and likewise move the seat backs well forward. Remove the philips headed screw in the carpeted section of the panel. The screw is close to the rear bulkhead and quite low down. The panel will still be attached to the bodywork by two plastic clips which are part of the panel. If you lift the panel directly upwards it will come off. Remember to disconnect the plug for the screen heater on the left panel. Close the top. Fit the retaining bolt to a 5mm hex key - I used a straight key, an extension and a ratchet handle. I used clingfilm to wrap round the bolt and the key. It grips well and is pretty insubstantial so isnt a problem to remove. Move the head lining (held in place by an elastic strap) to the side with your fingers and feel for the socket behind the main pivot of the top. Now you know where it is - offer the bolt up and start turning clockwise. In my case there was no problem either locating the sockets or getting the bolts to bite. It takes a lot of turning though before they become tight so don't lose heart. Tighten the bolts securely but dont overtighten. The clingfilm will tear when you remove the hex key. Open top again and admire the fitted spinlocks. If it bothers you - remove the little bits of cling film that are left attached to the bolt heads. Refit the trim panels and ensure the rubber door seal is back where it belongs covering the edge of the trim. Seasy! I've still to go and collect my hardtop so can't offer advice on adjusting - Yet!