When you find which sensor has broken loop, you can, instead of replacing (b/c they are not cheap if you buy OEM) just short it out. Doing so closes open loop thus removing warning light on dash. Most who do DEs, especially us w/ aftermkt pads (as most do not have slot for sensor), either zip-tie sensors to struts or short out. Why? We're constantly checking pads and bleeding brakes - no need for extra expense associated w/ actively tripping idiot light or accidentally if it melts due to heat.
For clarification, light comes on when wire is broken creating an open loop. It has nothing to do w/ false presumption "grounding sensor wire to rotor". If that were case, tripped sensor light would go away when replacing pads. Instead you have to replace sensor (or short).
With the design of 9x6 and 9x7 calipers, pad depth is easy to visually inspect... even w/o pulling wheels (sans some retro BBS or orig Sport Design etc). As a general guide...
- Assume inside pad has much greater wear than outside.
- When outside pad material is 2x as thick as backing pad, you're about ~ 50% pad life. Material as thick as backing plate - you're due and sensors will be tripped. Don't push too much from here as pad wear isn't necessarily linear...
In any event, this thread has been entertaining
