1996-1999 basically the same car "986.1"
2000-2004 basically the same car "986.2"
2005-2008 Basically the same car "987.1"
2009-20011 Basically the same car "987.2"
2012-2015 Basically the same car "981.1"
Sure the above have some options standard over others, but most of these can be added in the aftermarket and really are not the main thing to look out for, which is the engine.
Now I'm going to get really specific. Maybe too specific, but whatever.
First, try to find a car from Southern California (preferably in suburban areas and not cars that have been idling in traffic most of their lives -- not good for the engine). These are mostly cars driven year-round. A good thing. Cars that have been stored during winter need to be stored properly (fresh oil immediately before going in the garage). You want a car that was driven for more than five minutes each time it went out for a spin. Long stints help burn off the buildup.
Secondly, you want cars that have low miles. It's better to have a 2000 car with 30K miles than a 2004 car with 60K miles. Especially if the cars were driven in climates where there are extremes heat or cold. Those very expensive parts start to go in such conditions at around the 70K mile mark in my experience. I had almost no repairs for the first 70K miles of my car, and once I crossed that line it was one thing after another that went without warning along with the known Boxster weak spots.
Third, you want a car that is sold by a private seller with a solid history and records. These are most common if they are enthusiast-owned. Check all the Porsche forums, a lot, there's no middle man or website fee to pay. Cars with murky or no service history should be priced accordingly -- higher risk, don't overpay. Also, private sellers are more flexible with negotiating a sale price.
If I were buying now, and even if you are handy with the tool box, I'd still look in the forums for cars that have already had the IMS replaced, along with the clutch and flywheel. Preferably a dual row IMS bearing as these last longer than single row bearings -- dual row bearings will last until at least the next clutch job (ie typical mileage). A single row bearing replacement should not be kept in for more than 50K miles according to the experts on this matter. Make sure the car has recorded at least, oh say 1k miles since the IMS was replaced, more is better. This means that the old bearing was still in good shape and didn't start imploding before the owner tried to cover his tracks and slip in a new bearing. If the bearing begins to fail before it's swapped, the engine will need to be rebuilt otherwise its a big roll of the dice as all those little fragments get stuck in areas that can take down the engine. The next thing I would look for would be a 200-2002 S model, these have stronger cylinder walls, while the 2003-2004 engine changes make certain types of lifter failures more likely (flame suit on) than in 2000-2002 cars.
I would avoid any high mileage car that has not had suspension work, it can get VERY expensive quickly unless you have the space, tools and time to DIY, which it sounds like you are. But to those that aren't DIY, at independent shop rates a suspension overhaul can run $4-5K. But a worn out suspension left on a car for too long can wear down a bunch of other things. Do the motor mounts once you get the car, it makes a big difference, especially if the gear change makes a racket. . Also, Extra points to an owner who proactively replaced the water pump after it was at least five years old. And extra points for someone who at least replaced the coolant cap with the last version (2004). That little $20 cap can do a lot of damage if its not holding enough pressure. An owner who took the time to replace it, probably takes the time to do many other things before they break. If the coolant was flushed in preparation for sale, definitely make sure the cap has been updated. Each time an old 10+ year old cap is unscrewed it will probably hold less pressure, which can lead to cracking of original coolant tank which is probably brittle with age. The AOS is another weak spot, if this hasn't been replaced yet, it may let go soon.
These are all parts that should be proactively attended to because they can all take down the engine.
Outside, check the rear tires. If the tread is past it, offer less money because tires for this car are not cheap and you don't want cheap tires on this car, what's the point... And check the paint, because once a body shop sees a Porsche coming they see dollar signs. The soft top will cost you about $1500 to replace if its been worn out, you can add glass this way if its pre-2003. And when you do the PPI, I would hask for a leak down
and compression test to make sure the car is even worth buying in the first place (see wisdom of changing water pump proactively every 5 years). Bad numbers on this testing can signal big issues. I did none of these things..... but then again my car only had 9K miles when I bought it.
