The real question is are you looking to soften your steering feel and ride or get a more precise steering. His opinions are wrong and flawed. The bushing will soften ride and decrease steering precision. Why has Tarett, RSS, and Elephant all removed bushings from their control arms and links. Why have they gone to billet ball bushing. To increase tightness in suspension and steering. Bushing compress, and any compression changes the wheel geometry changing steering characteristics chamber and tow.
His video is base on opinion and not any mechanical theory , and his opinion is mostly wrong.
The Ball rides in the radial cup and when it is contained in a rigid bore and compressed as designed from both end, the surface area is larger due to being a radius. Once the end compression is remove and the radial bushing is out of the bore the appearance is that the pressure is only on a narrow linear band in the center. This is wrong and only happen if the bushing is worn out.
Second opinion that is wrong. As it is swiveling somehow there is a reduction of contact area and or performance. The ball and radial bushing are designed to operate at an angle, and has no need to return or be maintained in any location. As a design it maintains the same rigidity and force per square inch no matter what angle it is operated, within the design arc. So if the design arc is +- 10 degrees everywhere within that 20 Degrees the contact surface remains the same and force is dissipated the same.
His third opinion that is wrong. As the angle of operation on the straight bushing is moved from perpendicular the surface area is maintained. In reality a portion of the bushing is placed under traction and a portion under compression. So as the arm is raised off perpendicular the top half the bushing become loaded. The lower front side is unloaded, and the lower rear side goes under traction. This reverse as the arm is lowered. In reality this causing premature wear and a lack of rigidity.
The rigid ball joint with the Teflon bushing is more solid and although it can be prone to eventual looseness due to wear on the contact area, the contact area is on a radius which is manufactured to match the surface of the ball. The surface area of a radius is longer than a flat bushing. So in reality it reduce the force per square inch and therefore can be loaded more without flex, since the force is exerted over a larger surface area. Second positive point is the rigid ball bushing while not allowing lateral motion, also prevent components of axial movement as well. Hat style urethane bushing allow a slight flex both ways softening the feel of the road. Compression of even a few Thousands of an inch changes the tire contact patch (Chamber) and angles (Tow).
Urethane flat bushing compress immediately as force is added. The higher the force the more the bushing can flex. Which is really good if you would like a softer road feel. If precise steering is what you crave, your better off getting a more solid ball bushing with a more durable cup.
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2003 Black 986. modified for Advanced level HPDE and open track days.
* 3.6L LN block, 06 heads, Carrillo H rods, IDP with 987 intake, Oil mods, LN IMS. * Spec II Clutch, 3.2L S Spec P-P FW. * D2 shocks, GT3 arms & and links, Spacers front and rear * Weight reduced, No carpet, AC deleted, Remote PS pump, PS pump deleted. Recaro Pole position seats, Brey crouse ext. 5 point harness, NHP sport exhaust
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