[Perfectlap]

Why not just replace the boots if you've done all that work already?

May be useful, with pics. And good follow up reply comments from Pelican re how much greasing needs to be done. I love the replies...
And mind the bolt threads..

Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Boxster CV Joints and Boots / Axle Replacement - 986 / 987

"The next step in replacement of boots, joints or the axle is to jack up and raise the car off of the ground and remove the road wheels (see Pelican Technical Article: Jacking Up and Lifting the Boxster on Jack Stands). Then, remove the diagonal braces and the aluminum transmission cover (see Pelican Technical Article: Changing Automatic Transmission Fluid). Now remove the bolts from the inner CV joint using an hex socket (see Figure 2). In order to gain access to the CV bolts, rotate the wheel of the car until you can clearly get your hex socket on the bolts. Then, pull the emergency brake and place the transmission into first gear. This will allow you to loosen the bolts without having the axle spin. When you have removed all the bolts that you can from this angle, release the brake, take the car out of gear, and rotate the wheel until you can reach the next set of bolts. When all of the bolts are removed, suspend the end of the drive axle with some rope or wire.

With the CV joint disconnected from the transmission, you can work on replacing either one of the CV boots, or the inner CV joint. If you're replacing the entire axle, then you can skip these steps, as the axles come complete with new joints and boots. Remove the six bolts and the half-moon washers from the joint and pry off the dust cap (blue arrow, Figure 2). Then remove the circlip that holds the CV joint onto the axle (Figure 3). Cut or disconnect the clamp that holds the boot to the shaft, and the old CV and boot should simply slide off of the shaft. In general, it's a really bad sign if large balls from the bearing start falling out. That's a clear indicator that you need to replace the joint. If you are reusing the joint again, make sure that you carefully place it in a plastic bag, and avoid getting any dirt or grime in it. Even a crystal of sand or two accidentally placed in the CV joint can help it wear out prematurely. Inspect both CV joints for any wear prior to installing them back into the car. If you are simply replacing the boots, then carefully pry the old boot off of the joint. It is pressed onto to the end of the joint in a similar manner as the dust boot.

With the inner CV joint and boot completely removed, then your axle should resemble the inset of Figure 4. If you are replacing the boot on the outer joint, undo the clamp, and remove the boot and cover. Replacement boots aren't typically sold with the metal mounting plate attached, so you'll have to pull the old boot off of the plate and transfer the new one to it. Reinstall using a new pinch clamp, but don't tighten it quite yet. Reassemble your old CV or a new one onto the axle. With the new boot attached, rotate the joint through its entire motion before tightening the small, inner boot clamp: you don't want it to be too tight.

Whether you're reinstalling your old CV or using a new one, I recommend repacking the joint with grease. Also make sure that you place plenty of grease in and around the boot. Move the joint in and out as you insert the grease to make sure that you get it well lubricated, as the new CV joints do not come pre-greased. My preferred choice of lube is Swepco 101: a $12 tube should be good for about four joints total. When reinstalling the bolts into the transmission flange, make sure that the bolt threads are free of grease. Any grease on the threads can cause the bolts to come loose, and create a dangerous situation. Also, all your CV bolts should be checked after about 500 miles of driving."