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Either get a decoder (available on ebay for as little as $30 or ideally a few hundred for a durametric) or have your car decoded (most expensively at your dealer or for free at a lot of car parts shops like autozone). You need to know why the check engine light is coming on and fix it. You will not get failed for too many resets but you will for having a check engine light (or a pending failure which will also most likely show when you go to have your inspection).
The horn issue is probably not related to the check engine light. CEL is primarily reporting issues around emissions. Before you pull the wheel apart check if you have power at the horn itself when the button is pressed.
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