Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorthaur
Thinking again about your statement:
there's one missing point... how the hell she ran fine after the mechanic did "something fine" to her? Remember I drove it for 30 minutes and everything was perfectly ok. Then on the very next restart, the problems got back again... If it were for dirty fuel or water in it, it should not have ran fine, not once. Am I wrong?
The only thing I can think of - dealing with the bad fuel explanation - is that while the car is sitting what's wrong in the fuel tank definetely goes deeper, but fuel should ALWAYS come from the deepest point of the tank...
still a mistery to me... hope to shed some light on the matter.
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now i'm really confused.
based on your first post i was sure you did the job yourself, and problem started right after that (at first startup after job was done).
some quotes from your first post:
1."Recently I had my cluster bulbs replaced thanks to the good DIY guides found over here"
2."I previously disconnected the negative cable of the battery while leaving the ignition key on position 2 as read on the board in order to avoid the siren to scream (is this correct, BTW?)."
3."Two days later I picked the car up but the engine was really strange at idle. No fault lights on the cluster but no power at all, it hardly reached 1600 – 1900 RPM with the aircon switched off even if I floored the pedal."
my English is not perfect as well
so, i could be missing something?
beside that, your theory is right. if contaminated fuel was added to the tank, you will see the symptoms right away. especially if the tank was close to empty prior to refueling.