For my separator I needed to jack up the suspension although the car is already in the air. This I believe allows a little extra room to insert the tool. My T40 bit just flew off into space so I'll need another. But, you need a low profile one to fit under the control arm. Might need to hack off one and hold its shank with a small crecent wrench. My front joints popped off with a bang, but the rears came apart easily, probably cuz they had been removed before to install a lowering kit by previous owner. Lube the bottom of the separator fork before you whack the separator into position with a rubber mallet so that it won't tear the boot. If I had it to do again (and I don't think I would) I'd get new strut/chassis seals.
You'll be needing 10, 13, 15, 17, 18, 21mm wrenches and sockets, adaptors, extensions, torque wrench. 8mm and 10mm hex key sockets. Blue loctite. Hollow jack handle to use as cheater bar. Somehow the strut is not metric - need 1/4" hex key and 13/16 wrench. Thick wire to hang the caliper. Assorted chunks o' wood and boxes to support carrier/axle. My car is 2 feet in the air on a scissor lift - can't let the hub/axle hang by the emergency brake cable. I used a 1/2" electric impact wrench to undo the strut clamp cuz you sort of need 1 hand to counter hold a wrench, 1 to hold the impact and 1 or 2 more to handle the carrier/axle.
Good luck
Last edited by brp987; 07-19-2011 at 10:32 AM.
Reason: substitute carrier for hub
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