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Originally Posted by WhipE350
Maurice, much better explanation of what I was seeing up in there, now i know what that stuff is for  |
Whip:
The other microswitch inside the latch assembly has a different way of failing.
Whereas the parallel strips microswitch usually gets a hairline crack, the plunger-type microswitch (that controls the window-drop function) usually fails because it warps or gets distorted enough to no longer function as intended. In that case, the hook on the end of the latch no longer depresses it enough to trip or release the switch.
The plastic part of that switch becomes deformed, either from heat or from use. When the plastic in the mechanism has bent, the microswitch will usually still work when it is pushed in farther. You can test this theory by putting something in between the latch and the switch (like a small rectangular piece of cardboard) and see if the problem goes away. If you want to test it immediately before you devise a small piece of cardboard, close the top and, before you pull the latch shut, press into the spot where the tip of the hook of the latch normally goes (either with your finger or with the eraser part of a pencil) and see if the windows remain all the way closed. If that works, then you can decide if you want to stick a little piece of cardboard (or similar material) on the end of the hook or if you want to take the latch receptacle apart and try to bend the bent plastic part back into shape, or replace the microswitch. If it doesn't work, that switch will have to be replaced.
Let's hope Paul resolves this after he dives into the latch receptacle assembly.
Regards, Maurice.