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Old 09-11-2008, 06:59 AM   #14
chitowndad
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Chicago suburbs
Posts: 379
I like the idea of swapping the current head unit with another head unit that has more amp preouts. My avic D3 had several preouts and when I put in the ground loop eliminator on one of them (only needed one) it solved my whining issue so I'm hoping that it will work for you.

Interestingly when I did all of my wiring I had the car off and didn't notice my ground loop issue until I was ready to go for a drive. My whine was noticeable at low volumes when when I cranked it up you couldn't notice. Because I already had a new amp installed I simply put the ground loop eliminator on one of the preamp outputs just before the amp since that was the easiest location.

I was able to move my amp ground wire around to different locations and the problem went away but it eventually came back in a few days. It was all solved when I installed the ground loop eliminator.

Good luck and no problem on helping out.

I also have an issue with the amp giving out a pop sound when I leave the head unit on and pull the key out. I've since figured out that if I turn off the head unit before pulling out the key it doesn't happen. It's because True's instructions have the head unit wired to be always on and my amp is powering down when I pull the key out. If I power it down before turning off the car it's ok. I think if I switched back the power lead wiring to not always be on when the ignition is on I wouldn't have this issue. Some people thought that my amp was too powerful (2000 watts on 4 channels)

Good luck.

-Steve
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2001 Boxster S
Desnorkled
Pioneer Avic D3
JL Audio 6.5 inch subs (in the door)
Pyramid 4 channel amp
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