Results as follow :
Horsepower (at the wheels)
Base run with Dansk headers/Dansk Sports Cat/Dansk Sports Muffler : 239.6bhp @ 6,499rpm
Run with addon Evo Highflow Intake Kit : 241.6rpm @ 6,606rpm
Gain : 2bhp at about 6,500rpm
Torque (at the wheels)
Base run with Dansk headers/Dansk Sports Cat/Dansk Sports Muffler : 139.1kg/m @ 4,877rpm
Run with addon Evo Highflow Intake : 140kg/m @ 4,998rpm
Gain : 1kg/m at about 4,900rpm
The fuel used for all dyno is 100 Octane as this is available from most pumps locally. The dyno graph is attached. Red is the run with the intake.
An air temp probe was installed before/after the change. I'm using deg Celsius over here so resulted in the double digit for deg Fahrenheit after conversion. So it's not that I'm using a super accurate temp sensor
A picture of the sensor is attached for reference. Cost me about US$15. The following were noted :
Original Stock Intake (Ambient Temp : 89.6 deg F according to in-dash display)
Car stationary for 1 min with engine running :
- 102.74 to 104.18 (1.43 deg F increase)
- 104.54 to 105.44 (0.9 deg F increase)
Car stationary for 1 min with engine not running :
- 106.34 to 114.26 (7.92 deg F increase)
Car in motion at about 55mph for 1 min :
- Generally 6.3 deg F above ambient temp if engine was started from cold
- Generally 10 deg F above ambient temp if engine was hot when started
Evo Highflow Intake (Ambient Temp : 91.4 deg F according to in-dash display)
Car stationary for 1 min with engine running :
- 105.44 to 121.46 (16.02 deg F increase)
- 112.46 to 129.02 (16.56 deg F increase)
Car stationary for 1 min with engine not running :
- Similar to above
Car in motion at about 55mph for 1 min :
- Generally 2.7 deg F above ambient temp if engine was started from cold
- Generally 5.4 deg F above ambient temp if engine was hot when started
If anyone is interested to know how hot the engine bay gets, the temp sensor reads 153 deg F after letting the car sit for about 40 mins.
Observations :
- bhp was down everywhere except about 2,000rpm and 6,500rpm
- bhp drop is significant at 3,000rpm
- torque was down bet 2,500 to 4,800rpm and 6,100 to 6,400rpm
- Drop in torque is significant at 3,000rpm, about 5kg/m
- Air temp increase significant during traffic even with heat shield, 1 deg F vs 16 deg F increase
- Air temp generally lower when car is cruising
The stock air box is a real PITA to remove. The intake manifold needs to be loosened and even then, pulling the airbox out was no easy task still.
Needless to say, I'm unhappy with the overall results. I think the car is still somewhat better compared to a completely stock one but for the money spent till now, the past 2 mods (muffler & intake) have yielded negative results.
Some suggested in another posting that my poor results could be due to either a bad MAF or air leakage from loose fitting. I've checked all the hoses and fasteners today and found all to be tight. I doubt a bad MAF as my idling is steady across all rpms.
So now, I'm assuming a ECU is necessary to benefit from all this mods. Anyone with comments on GIAC? I'm thinking of taking that route but will need to live without my car for 1 week as I need to send the ECU to a dealer to get it re-programmed
