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That microswitch just may be at fault, but the coincidence of this happening at this time is what bothers me. I just hope it's the mircoswitch rather than door alignment.
BUT, I am not totally in agreement with the provided alternate jacking instructions and would like to add comments about that.
First, that hockey puck is concentrating the lift over just a few inches. I took a 10--12 inch long piece of 4x4 lumber and used a circular saw to cut a channel down the center of its length. The channel cut should be approx 1/4" wide and NOT AS DEEP as the welded up piece that extends downward that you jack on...this allows all the lift to be supported by the bottom of the vertical welded piece along the entire length of the 4x4. Use this pressure distributing block as close to the front or rear as possible to avoid jacking the entire side of the car at once. I've just done a major project with this jacking setup and it works very well and easy.
Second, I would limit the jack stands height to just enough to remove the wheel/tire. Each extra inch that you jack the car using an alternate point (to accommodate your jack stand) requires a lot of extra force since car frame/body is being torqued and is resisting.
They put those installed jack points there for a good reason. The use of any alternate points is risky and I recommend that you heed what I've said above. I once learned this the hard way with a partially crushed underbody alternate jack point, but that was a different model sports car.
Bob
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