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Originally Posted by jordan986
hmmm maybe I should have a look at mine! So your saying the degree of correction is not enough from the factory, is it just some cars that suffer from this problem or all? Depending on the lowering can the factory toe links be sufficient or is it necessary to change them no matter how low?
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racer_d is right...to an extent. many boxsters, including my own, don't have enough toe adjustment even for the RoW M030 suspension, which is a factory option. porsche986spyder is right in that the degree of the issue is heavily dependant upon the amount your car is lowered.
MOST cars can handle M030 RoW with no problem. MANY cars can handle the Eibach with no problem. i have seen NO cars that can handle the H&R springs without a problem.
the factory camber spec in back should be around -1.6 to -1.8. tires will wear fine at these settings. my personal car will have WAY too much toe in unless i'm running at least -2.4 degrees of camber. it just so happens that my particular car was on the upper end of the camber spectrum from the get go (i can get up to
-3.2 degrees in back and -1.7 degrees up front with no camber plates).
other cars are camber challenged in that they can't ever seem to get more neg camber than the factory spec. it's the 'slop' (tolerance stack-up in engineer speak) that causes this.
the only solution is aftermarket toe links, which still may not entirely cure the problem (although they will greatly improve it). it all depends upon your particular car.
to determine your car's minimum neg camber (rear), you set the toe links to full toe out. you then adjust the camber until you have zero toe (changing the camber changes the toe). when you have zero toe, you measure your camber. this is the minimum negative camber that your car is capable of as it is currently set up. on most cars at factory height, this will be in the -1.4 range. you run into problems with tire wear at and beyond -1.9 degrees.