A $1,600 Boxster and two projects

[78F350]

I have bought a few 'cheap Porsches' before and know what to expect. When I saw this 2001 offered at $1,700, I had to check out.
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Engine doesn't turn and cheap seat covers covering badly cracked leather, but Litronic lights and no serious body damage. I see plenty of opportunity to get my money back out of it, but I also see a great opportunity to build a 986 for the Grassroots Motorsports $2,000 Challenge. I offered $1,600 and the seller agreed. We did a simple trailer to trailer transfer and I parked it for a few days while I figured out what to do next.




The $2,000 Challenge is a competition with a three events: autocross, concours, and drag race. The total budget for buying and building the car is $2,000, but there are ways to manipulate the budget with trades, exceptions, and up to $1,000 'recoup' from selling parts. Parts that come off the car for recoup don't actually have to be sold. You can 'sell them to yourself' if you document the fair market value price. Starting at $1,600 I can get $1,000 recoup from Litronics, storage shelf, and headlight washers (I have cracked, yellowed junk lights I can replace them with at nominal value. That put my starting budget at $600 spent with $1,400 to build with.




Originally my thought was to verify the engine was not economically repairable, then either fix it, or swap in an Audi V8 ABZ engine ($600 complete with ECU) that's been sitting in my garage. As I did a more detailed Post Purchase Inspection, I realized that it was a nicer car than the 1999 that my daughter drives. I checked with the organizer of the Challenge and got approval to trade the chassis of the 1999 for the 2001 as long as it is clearly documented on my 'build book' budget. The concept is simple, but I'll have to be careful about the details, part-for-part, to keep it clean.
The plan emerged:

• Pull parts from the 2001 for recoup.
• Remove the engine from the '99 and put it in an equal state to the 2001.
• Officially 'trade cars' with myself.
• Fix the 2001 (install a 2.5L or buy a 2.7L engine) and install the recouped parts back on it, since it is no longer the Challenge car.
• Strip out the 1999 to lighten it and swap in the Audi V8.
• Figure out tires, wheels, suspension, aero, etc. with what remains in the budget.

I have no illusion that I will actually be competitive at the Challenge, but I will compete. This is about having fun and making a decent car for my daughter and a toy for me from the pile of stuff I have accumulated in the driveway.

As I write this, the 2001 is outside in the parking lot. I drove it to work today with a 2.5L 1997 engine in it. More on that with my next update.

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(Here's the build thread on another forum if you want to jump ahead: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/challenge-boxster/154304/page1/ )

[BRAN]

where`s the Popcorn...awesome

[maytag]

doood.......

this will be AWESOME FUN!!!

[78F350]

I started work on the 2001. When I first looked at it, I still hoped that the engine would be repairable – maybe a bad AOS. The initial inspection of the oil filter showed plenty of metal and hopes of an easy fix died. A deeper look showed a valve and most of at least one piston sitting in the sump. At that point, to me, the engine is trash other than some salvageable parts.



I decided to try out a 2.5L 1997 engine that I have had sitting outside under a tarp for a couple years. Really not a wise choice, but there it was right next to the garage, waiting to be used or scrapped. It had been in a 2000 S before, where it never ran right and just dumped coolant and ran hot when I tried to kill it on the track at Hallett. I had offered to give it away, but the logistics never worked out. I wasn't even sure it would run anymore after sitting outside for so long. Knowing that it could be a waste of time, I went ahead and swapped it in. If it failed, I could use the engine from the '99 or just do the V8 swap in this car.



There are differences between the 1997 2.5L and the 2001 2.7L engines. There are enough similarities though that the swap can be worked out. I took all of the intake, fuel, wiring, and vacuum parts from the top of the 2.7 and put them on the 2.5. The 2.7 intake runners would not bolt to the 2.5 without 'adjusting' some of the mounting holes a few millimeters from their original location. The intake ports on the 2.5 engine are significantly smaller than the 2.7, but the seals still met the machined metal.



Other differences were the coolant purge line on the 2.5 goes to the front of the engine under the AC compressor, where on all the later engines, it connects to the top of the oil cooler. The oil cooler has a different mounting base on the 1997 engine and will need an adapter to use a later unit. I had to swap a coolant temp sensor on the front of the engine to fit the harness. Otherwise, the wires, hoses, nuts and bolts all seem to have worked out.



I started to replace the oil cooler, but found that it wasn't going to work without an adapter plate and put the old cooler back on with new o-rings. I still want to replace it. Now I'm curious: will a Tiptronic transmission oil cooler fit? Looking at diagrams of the 'Nissens' brand at Rock Auto, it looks like a good fit. Why not just get a correct 1997 oil cooler? Why not get the adapter plate and use the “S” oil cooler I bought? Sometimes I just like to make things a little more difficult for myself. ...curiosity. Anyone have an extra adapter plate or Tiptronic cooler???

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Anyone have an extra adapter plate or Tiptronic cooler???

I have the original cooler from my 98, replaced with the S cooler.

Nothing wrong with it. No leaks. I just wanted the upgrade.

It's yours... Gratis. Just pay shipping. PM me.

[78F350]

If anyone wants, I can get into further detail about swapping the 2.5L in or replacing the engine in general, but there are plenty of posts here on the forum about installing an engine. A few notes: This engine already had a recent AOS and water pump replacement. I opted not to do the IMS/RMS. They looked good with no leaks and as a 1997 engine it has a dual row bearing. Given the history of this engine, I expect some other failure before the IMS goes. It had a failed water pump when I first got it and I flushed water through the cooling system after removing it from the 2000 S and before installing it in this car. I am still not sure that all the coolant passages are clear.



My wife recorded video of it's first drive with the replacement engine. It ran rough at idle when I first started it, but smoothed out above 2,000 rpm. I knew it could be minor and simple, or a sign of impending doom. For an engine that sat abandoned under a tarp in my driveway for two years, I call running at all a big win.
Video: https://youtu.be/QkheUt0eRUs

Using an Autel MD802 showed codes for a misfire on 2 and 5. Troubleshooting, I started by replacing the coil and plug in 5. That cleared it. With 2, I tried the coil first. -Still a misfire. I swapped in a plug and it cleared. All the plugs are old, and I'm not sure why those two were bad. I'm going to replace them all with new ones later. With the misfires cleared, it was smooth except for a quick surge at idle. That got better and went away as the ECU adapted to the 2.5L engine.



Now that its a running, driving car, I can get a look at all the other problems. A quick list from my first drive included: The washer fluid tank leaks, Brake wear light is on, Airbag light is on because I disconnected the SRS while my grandson rides with me, Steering wheel is canted about 15 degrees when the car is straight (Alignment seems good, so I'm guessing the wheel was not set when it was aligned.), Typical old Boxster issue of windows not quite operating right when the doors close, Heat shield on the exhaust rattling, and more. Nothing serious, but lots of little things, common for a 18 year old car that has seen a lapse of care.



I'm driving it daily to work this week. I'll probably fix some of the minor issues in the evenings. My only big concern right now is the issue the engine had before with cooling. I have smelled some coolant when I parked it, and the coolant level has changed as I have driven it. It may be fine, since I didn't really take the time to purge the air out of the system after refilling. I've been driving with the tank vent open to allow the air out of the system. I'll see how it progresses and flush/replace the coolant in about a week.

Next, I want to start focusing on the actual Challenge car and V8 swap. The work on the '01 has been a good warm up and refresher. It will also be a back-up car for the Challenge if I run into problems or bust the budget with the other car.

[78F350]

Originally Posted by Starter986

I have the original cooler from my 98, replaced with the S cooler.

Nothing wrong with it. No leaks. I just wanted the upgrade.

It's yours... Gratis. Just pay shipping. PM me.

Awesome, thanks! Sending a PM.

[78F350]

A question was asked about how to get the engine out and how high the car has to be. I just use cheap Harbor Freight jacks and jackstands. I'd love a scissor lift or QuickJack.

Here's my answer to how I did it this time:
To get the engine out, I just used jack stands on top of concrete blocks (laying on their side). The front wheels were on "Rhino ramps". For a jack, I use a "Pittsburgh Automotive 3 Ton Heavy Duty Ultra Low Profile Steel Floor Jack" from Harbor Freight for about $79.
I lowered the engine and transmission together with the jack under transmission and an "ATV Lift" under the engine. Use a couple blocks of wood for padding or to fill space.
After it's lowered on the jack, I get it off the jack onto a sheet of cardboard or plywood, then slide it out on the floor. I usually have to rotate the engine to get it past the suspension support.



I don't have an exact height. "As high as my jack can get it" is what I use. Higher is better. Always have another support in place to prevent the car from falling more than a couple inches.

A good alternative method is to drop the rear suspension with the engine and transmission. I have done that too. Here's a post with pics of that being done on Tom Stone's car: Spec Boxster Build

[PaulE]

Nice! I'm going to be following this!

[78F350]

Here's a last look at the car while it's still looking pretty. Anything of value or significant weight that isn't needed to keep the car roadworthy or quick through an autocross course is being considered for removal.

Video: https://youtu.be/qe0kEi1lWYo

[Starter986]

The car looks great!

That V-8 swap would have been nice.

[mrfoodie]

It's lovely!

[78F350]

I started taking excess weight off the car. When I drove it this evening it felt a lot quicker and lighter, but it's probably my imagination. I weighed some stuff as I took it off:

Clamshell: 16 lbs
Convertible top: 37 lbs
Seats: 46 lbs each
Misc interior (rear shelf, center console, misc plastics, rear carpets, stereo...): 37 lbs
Doors: 75 lbs ea (added in Stripped out door with window 57 lbs) net loss: 18 lbs ea
Spoiler mechanism: 7 lbs
Convertible Top motor & transmissions: 10 lbs
Rear Bumper: 12 lbs
Bumperettes: 1 lb ea

There's still plenty more to go. I had thought of cutting back the dashboard, but after pulling it out of my parts car it really didn't have much weight. The weight there comes from the HVAC system and bracing behind the dash. The bracing is good for safety and stiffening the chassis. The AC in this car is working great and still very useful, so for now, it's staying. For the Challenge, I may just put on an AC delete belt to bypass the compressor.

For now, I have a hardtop on it to keep the weather out. I may build a hardtop shell for the Challenge. There's a lot of drag with the top completely removed.

Porsche boxster 986-topless - Turbulence Energy by GT Collection, on Flickr

Swapping doors:



My total cash found in the car was $9.30:

[itsnotanova]

I get having ac for a car you're driving a lot but I think for this car you should ditch it. At best it's only needed for 4 months of the year and most racing around here doesn't happen during summer. Sure ac is nice but I think the weight savings is worth the sacrifice.

[Fiddlebog]

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

I get having ac for a car you're driving a lot but I think for this car you should ditch it. At best it's only needed for 4 months of the year and most racing around here doesn't happen during summer. Sure ac is nice but I think the weight savings is worth the sacrifice.

I'm planning on converting my '03 to a track car and was considering doing an AC-delete. How would you recommend doing this-specifically, would you replace the compressor with an idler pulley, or get a shorter belt? If you use a shorter belt, what belt?

[78F350]

Originally Posted by Fiddlebog

... would you replace the compressor with an idler pulley, or get a shorter belt? If you use a shorter belt, what belt?

There's no need for an idler pulley. Just get a shorter belt and run it directly from the crank to the PS pump. I have bypassed the AC compressor like that with it still installed. The AC delete belt is: size 760k6, or Gates - K060760.

Woody is right about getting rid of the AC. I need to quit thinking of this car as having other purposes and just commit to making it into a car for the $2,000 Challenge and whatever else looks fun after that - I have plenty of cars to drive on the street with AC.

[Smallblock454]

Hm, i don't like this seat "brackets". You need something much more sturdy. This is safety relevant. In case of an accident your seat will fly with you through the front window. I know it's a budget build, but don't do safety relevant things like seat brackets on a no budget attempt.

Regards, Markus

[78F350]

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

... In case of an accident your seat will fly with you through the front window. I know it's a budget build, but don't do safety relevant things like seat brackets on a no budget attempt.

Regards, Markus

Thanks for the comment and I appreciate your opinion. What I used looks like junk loosely cobbled together, but when it's firmly bolted together, it is stronger and more rigid than many of the commercial products available.


The thickness and strength of the steel angle iron is comparable to the original seat frame and I have it doubled together in the vertical axis. The shoulder harness straps are secured to the roll bar. The lap belt is secured the same as the stock seat belt - left side bolted to the frame, below and aft of the door and only the right side bolted to the seat rail. I considered moving the right side belt mount to the frame, but decided that it would be best to stay with the original mounting as designed by Porsche (using a bolt and spacer from an Audi seat belt). If the seat and I fly through the front window, we will take the roll bar, door frame, and seat rail with us.

[itsnotanova]

Those brackets won't win a beauty contest, but I think they'll hold. If anything I would add another bolt or two to each vertical part. I also think you need to add another fan to the radiator. I'm running into cooling issues with my radiator set up. Your radiator is larger than the one I have but our fans look to be the same size. My car overheats if you try racing in over 90 degree day's. I just switched to an electric water pump but I'm not sure it helped.

[78F350]

Plans have changed a lot since I started this thread. This was going to be about restoring the black 2001 car and making the silver '99 into a car for the $2000 Challenge. Now, I've ripped apart the 2001 car and barely done anything the the '99. I'll probably post a couple updates as I finish running the car in the $2,000 Challenge, then start a new build thread for it.
Here's an update:

Seat. The seat isn't really a big concern. I have lots of them. The reason for the aluminum race seat is so that I can properly mount a 5 or 6 point harness. Boxster seats and the Sparco seat I have don't have the hole for the mid-strap. I don't need the race harness, but want to have it available. At the moment there's a partially burned Savannah Beige seat in there - easy to work around.

2.5L Engine. The engine runs great, but still whenever I run it hard - sustained over 4k rpm, the coolant tank over-pressurizes and vents coolant. This engine needs to be put out of my misery. I plan to kill it in the drag race after I get a base run for points. I have installed a nitrous oxide system in the car that will give it up to a 150 wet shot. I expect I'll need some kitty litter. Hopefully I don't need to use the fire extinguisher, but I'll be wearing Nomex coveralls, an SFI jacket, and have the extinguisher within reach.

Cooling. The radiator units in a 986 weigh about 18 lbs each. They are out. I put a Toyota Corolla unit in the frunk that weighs about 12 lbs. Hoses thru the side-wall. Original fan harness tapped with a manual switch off the high speed fan relay. Cut bumper cover, holes drilled in the frunk and louvers in the hood. It's kind of ugly, but it doesn't need the fan at idle and cools well when driving. I'm going to have a bottle to catch the venting coolant rather than draining it by the right rear wheel.


Body. I started making a custom front bumper for it using trashed bumpers and construction foam. It wasn't going well, so I just went back to the original bumper cover and cut a big hole for airflow.


There's a partial hard top that I made from an aluminum Audi A8 hood and a convertible frame. Keeps the sun and rain off and should make better aero than topless. It can easily be removed.

The rear bumper is cut out at the bumperettes and the spoiler cap is riveted to a curved plastic 'fixed spoiler' cut from a scrap Jetta bumper.


Interior. Most of the carpet is stripped out. HVAC stuff is all gone. I kept most of the wiring intact and bundled the ends. Half the dash from my burned parts car to hold the instruments and add a little 'comfort'.


There's still a lot of work to do and two weeks left until the competition. Hopefully it all holds together through the first drag run. V8 swap is planned for a winter project.