Blue boxster resurrection project

[Homeoboxter]

I measured the resistance of the solenoids with an Ohm-meter. Both turned out fine. This is all the distance that the solenoid`s pin travels when powered on.




Crankshaft fixed at TDC.



Camshafts pulled down and locked at TDC with the locking tool. This tool is not really necessary because the timing can be set simply with a ruler, but if the kit includes it I thought I might as well use it.




Once timing is set, the camshafts can be held down with this tool that allows for replacing the valve cover.




Long block is done.





I`m really happy with this cheap tool set from ebay. It has almost everything needed to assemble this engine. It`s worth every penny (~$80) and saves a lot of time.

[pilot4fn]

Real nicely built an ddocumented project makes me want to rebuilt my 2.7 my self when it needs that one day (maybe all chain ramps, chain tensioners, IMS, cutch & FW first...), instead of having local indy to do these.

[Qingdao]

NICE.

Now for the nitty gritty; put that thing back up in there and DRIVE.

[maytag]

I LOVE this thread!
Well done sir!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[Homeoboxter]

Thanks, Guys. Yeah, it`s coming along nicely, I think I`ll be able to put the engine back in the chassis in a couple weeks. There`s still a lot to do though. For instance, I just realized that several parts of the secondary air injection system (SAI) have to be replaced. Looks like everything that has an abbreviated name (SAI, AOS, RMS, IMS, DMF) in this car needs attention at least after 100k miles. Or conversely, they are abbreviated because they frequently fail? Next time before I buy a car, I`ll look into the forums and if I see too many acronyms I`ll just walk away

[Homeoboxter]

Ok, so I made the same mistake again, for some reason I thought that the car had been running fine before the timing failed, so everything else should be ok. I was wrong, of course.

Luckily I borrowed a Mityvac vacuum tester for some other purpose from a friend, and I thought I check the components of the secondary air injection system, or SAI, just in case. The vacuum reservoir tested out fine, it holds the vacuum perfectly.



The change-over valve failed though.. Vacuum should open a diaphragm inside which opens a valve for the air flow. This one here does nothing.



It looks surprisingly clean inside.





Ok, this is where the vacuum escaped..



The next component in the system is the check valve. It`s a simple rectifying valve that won`t let the exhaust gas going backwards toward the check valve. I blew some air in it, went through freely from both sides. Not a good sign.



Inside. Not too healthy.





Both the check valve and the change over valve cost over $100 each. Great... After some digging, I found an old thread with some excellent info about the Mercedes SAI being very similar to the Boxster`s. After subtracting the Porsche tax, they came out much cheaper.

Check valve, porsche vs. Mercedes. They look identical.



Change over valve, Porsche (left, destroyed) vs Mercedes. The vacuum line inlet is rotated 90 degrees and the housing is plastic instead of aluminum, but it`s made for the same purpose in a German car, so it should work. Thanks, Particlewave, for the tip!

[PaulE]

Nice work! I'm surprised a Mercedes part is significantly cheaper than a Porsche part!

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by PaulE

Nice work! I'm surprised a Mercedes part is significantly cheaper than a Porsche part!

Thank you! Well, the original parts are made by Denso, and the replacements are MTC, which is a cheaper brand, hence the big difference (3-4 times). But the genuine Mercedes vs. Porsche part pricing seems to be significantly different too for the same part.

[pilot4fn]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Thank you! Well, the original parts are made by Denso, and the replacements are MTC, which is a cheaper brand, hence the big difference (3-4 times). But the genuine Mercedes vs. Porsche part pricing seems to be significantly different too for the same part.

Could you post the MB part numbers (check valve and change over valve) you used instead of Porsche? I'm lookin to swap these parts during next winter.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by pilot4fn

Could you post the MB part numbers (check valve and change over valve) you used instead of Porsche? I'm lookin to swap these parts during next winter.

Sure, here are the ebay links:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-R107-W124-W126-R129-W140-W201-Air-Injection-Valve-MTC-000-140-77-60/271827041358?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Pump-Check-Valve-MTC-Secondary-Air-Injection-Pump-Check-Valve-WD-Express/114024716057?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2057872.m2749.l2649

I found another one, which seems to be the same exact part Porsche uses, FYI:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-R107-W124-W126-R129-W140-W201-Air-Injection-Valve-Shut-off-Valve/370820859705?fits=Make%3AMercedes-Benz&epid=1911251163&hash=item5656a54739:g:8mUAAOS wgv5ZVnyW

[pilot4fn]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Sure, here are the ebay links:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-R107-W124-W126-R129-W140-W201-Air-Injection-Valve-MTC-000-140-77-60/271827041358?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Pump-Check-Valve-MTC-Secondary-Air-Injection-Pump-Check-Valve-WD-Express/114024716057?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2057872.m2749.l2649

I found another one, which seems to be the same exact part Porsche uses, FYI:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-R107-W124-W126-R129-W140-W201-Air-Injection-Valve-Shut-off-Valve/370820859705?fits=Make%3AMercedes-Benz&epid=1911251163&hash=item5656a54739:g:8mUAAOS wgv5ZVnyW

Fantastic, thanks

[Homeoboxter]

Few more updates for today, new SAI system and a couple more parts back on the top of the engine:



Next is the wiring harness which was in a rough shape with stripped wires, broken connectors, cables completely chewed apart by some critters during the eleven year nap. I pulled this connector for the MAF sensor from a junkyard and soldered it back on the harness:







Rebuilt harness with fixed connectors and resleeved wires, ready to go:



I took the engine off of the stand and put it on my desk so I can tackle the clutch and the flywheel. I fabricated a simple tool to lock the flywheel for tightening the bolts. It has to withstand 25Nm plus 110 degrees turn on those 8 bolts.





After torquing the bolts down I realized that the new clutch set includes a new needle bearing for the transmission`s input shaft. Of course it would have been much easier to replace it when the flywheel was off... Fortunately I had bought a blind hole inner bearing puller for the IMS:



After carefully heating up the bore (I didn`t want to fry the RMS behind the flywheel with the heat gun) and freezing the bearing it went in with not too much hassle:

[Homeoboxter]

Kind of getting lost in the details again and spending way more time on this project than required I wanted to prime the oil circulation system and inspect the variocam operation before I put the engine back in the car. I have a spare pump that I was not gonna reuse so I rebuilt it into a pump that can be driven externally with a drill.

I removed the hexagonal drive shaft to disconnect it from the IMS.



And attached a drive shaft onto the other side (and the other gear).



Drilled the housing through.





Here`s how it looks.



Besides filling the system with oil, it also allowed me to get an insight into how much the oil level drops in the engine when the oil pump runs. After driving the pump for about a minute and re-inserting the dipstick the change in the level is only a few millimeters (on the dipstick). So I`m pretty confident now that the fully opened IMSB won`t be starving oil.

As for the variocam, I`ll upload a new video soon.
Happy Sunday!

[Qingdao]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

After carefully heating up the bore (I didn`t want to fry the RMS behind the flywheel with the heat gun) and freezing the bearing it went in with not too much hassle:

I LOVE using heat when installing bearings and press fittings. I started using heat to the extreem to press in ball joints at work last year. I used to just use a ball joint press, but now I just cherry red the spindle and pop the joint in by hand. Then cool the crap out of the joint asap (yes I have melted the plastic bushings in the spherical joint once). It makes for a PERFECT press fit.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by Qingdao

I LOVE using heat when installing bearings and press fittings. I started using heat to the extreem to press in ball joints at work last year. I used to just use a ball joint press, but now I just cherry red the spindle and pop the joint in by hand. Then cool the crap out of the joint asap (yes I have melted the plastic bushings in the spherical joint once). It makes for a PERFECT press fit.

Yeah, heat/cooling is a gentle way of assembling parts. When I work on motorcycle engines I just heat up the cases in the oven and just drop the cold bearings in the bores and they slide right in. The less force the better

[Homeoboxter]

Accessories are coming together. I spent some time on sorting out the routing of all the cables, wires and hoses. The pictures I took two years ago were very very helpful, much more useful than the notes I made and I don`t remember what I meant with them





Order in the disorder.





New gaskets, O-rings, plugs, thermostat, etc. Several rounds from Pelican since I always forget about something. At least now I have several wine vouchers as well...



New clutch.





Cleaning/testing injectors.




Cheers!

[BruceH]

Very nice

[Homeoboxter]

Thanks!

My engine mount was cracked so I got a new Lemforder insert and took the whole stuff to the nearest shop to get them swapped. They were willing to press it out and press the new one in for $60. I still can`t get used to the Bay Area prices. So I decided to do it myself. It was a huge pain and I spent way more time on it than it`s worth, so probably that was not the best decision, but hindsight is always 20/20.



Heating up the aluminum housing as if it made a difference.



This is my setup: I went to autozone and rented a wheel bearing puller set that I combined with my vise.



There was a great chance that I would break the vise using this meter long extension, but actually it survived.



Everything is possible, just have to force it.



I`m stronger, told you...



For assembling I was gonna save some manpower and dropped the insert in the freezer overnight and heated the housing in the oven before the action.



It helped, it was definitely easier, still a hassle though.



Time to give it some vibration

[Qingdao]

I think you are supposed to bolt that vise to a work bench... I could be wrong. LOL


I typically burn the old bushings out in this type of scenario.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by Qingdao

I think you are supposed to bolt that vise to a work bench... I could be wrong. LOL


I typically burn the old bushings out in this type of scenario.

Yeah, that vise has been like that since I moved here from my previous place... Maybe once the Porsche engine is off the bench!

If I burned out the bushing I`d end up with a steel cyilinder in an aluminum bore that I still would have to press out.